Eric and Lucie's Bus Trip

The Climbs

Listed in reverse chronological order (most recent at top). Some climbs have links to trip report pages with photographs. If you're looking for a particular route by name, use your browser's search tool to locate it (in Microsoft Internet Explorer click on >Edit >Find).

Note that commitment grades are for comparison only. We roughly adopted Nelson and Potterfield's scale from their guidebook "Selected Climbs in The Cascades", then used our judgment to make grades in other mountain ranges (or other countries) consistent with those in the Cascades. These grades do not include time spent approaching a high camp, when one was used.

Quality ratings are of course entirely subjective and range from no star to five stars. We occasionally use NR, for "Not Recommended". Keep in mind that we have a very strong preference for long trad routes that follow striking, obvious lines... our quality ratings probably reflect that.

For a summary of climbs we've done before this trip, check the climbing page of our 2003-2004 bus trip, and our climbing resume.

Type	Location/Peak	Route(s)	Map	Rating	Quality	Date	Remarks
Rock	The Whale, Whitney Portal, Lone Pine, CA	Bony Fingers	North America	5.10c, 3p	****	06/25/08	Really fun finger crack on gorgeous rock.
Rock	Voodo Dome, Needles, CA	White Punks on Dope	North America	5.9, 6p	****	06/22/08	Superbly varied; classic 4th pitch - and 6th if you go up the 5.9 finger crack on the left (you should).
Rock	The Sorcerer, Needles, CA	Atlantis (1st pitch)	North America	5.10c	***	06/18/08	Classic steep flake; 3 stars because we only did p1...but the rest of the line looks awesome if you're up to 5.11+...
Rock	The Witch, Needles, CA	Igor Unchained	North America	5.9, 3p	*****	06/18/08	THE classic line on the Witch. Straight shot to the top and great sustained crack climbing.
Rock	The Sorcerer, Needles, CA	Thin Ice	North America	5.10b, 3p	*****	06/15/08	Probably the most striking line on the east face of the Sorcerer. Classic finger cracks on p1 lead to... 5.10a squeeze on p2!
Rock	The Witch, Needles, CA	Airy Interlude	North America	5.10a, 4p	****	06/15/08	Just left of Igor is this amazing, picture perfect hand traverse (p2).
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	The Vampire	North America	5.11a, 5p	*****	06/11/08	A Tahquitz classic! Follows a direct line up the Center Bulge. P2 follows an awesome lieback flake. Short cruxes and good pro.
Rock	Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Serpentine	North America	5.10a, 3p	**	06/08/08	Generic slab.
		Sundance		5.10b, 3p	***		Old classic on the Sunshine Face. Crux move right off ledge should be rated PG IMHO.
		Johnny Quest		5.10b, 1p	***		Burly finger crack. Much too short but very good.
Rock	Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Flower of High Rank & Etude	North America	5.9, 2p & 5.11a, 1p	****	06/05/08	Two of top 3 crack climbs at Suicide?
Rock	Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Revelation	North America	5.10a, 3p	**	06/05/08	Classic slab climbing on the Weeping Wall. Very slabby (duh!) and runout.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Whodunit	North America	5.9, 7p	*****	06/03/08	One of the best lines at Tahquitz with very good pro. We'd done it before but it's so good that we had to do it again.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Fingertrip	North America	5.7, 4p	***	05/31/08	The classic of the grade at Tahquitz. The 1st pitch is phenomenal.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	On the Road (linked with Traitor Horn)	North America	5.10c (& 5.8), 5p	***	05/31/08	OtR is a striking thin dihedral that sits one pitch off the ground. Linking this with TH, a wild 5.8, makes for a great route.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Left Ski Track	North America	5.6, 3p	**	05/29/08	Very different from other routes at Tahquitz: steep and juggy. Somewhat tricky pro.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Human Fright (p1) & Camino Real	North America	5.10a	***	05/27/08	The 1st pitch of HF makes a nice warmup. CR's 3rd pitch is a classic. The rest of that route is nothing special.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	El Monte, Edgehogs (p1), Farewell Horizontal	North America	5.10a and 5.10b/c	*	05/20/08	Bailed off El Monte after 2 pitches (dangerous rusted bolt). Didn't see any bolts above p1 of Edgehogs (?). Farewell Horizontal is quite good.
Rock	Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA	Super Pooper	North America	5.10a, 3p	***	05/18/08	Another one we had done before, but it's a really good line!
Rock	Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV	Epinephrine	North America	5.9, 16p	*****	05/11/08	We'd done it before but had to do it again. One of the very best long classic routes at RR.
Rock	Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV	Sour Mash	North America	5.10a, 7-8p	****	05/09/08	Really excellent route; sustained and varied.
Rock	Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV	Refried Brains (p1-4)	North America	5.9, 4p	***	05/06/08	Very good, sustained route on gorgeous rock (p1-4). Didn't do the rest of the route, which Handren' guidebook reports as loose.
Rock	Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson	Woman of Mountain Dreams	North America	5.11a, 16p	****	05/03/08	An amazing plumb line up the center of the Aeolian wall. Good climbing on p2 to p9. The upper pitches are loose/brittle. The fourth star is for the line.
Rock	Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV	Overhanging Hangover & Johnny Come Lately	North America	5.10a, 2p & 5.10d, 1p	**	04/30/08	Two good shorter routes under (and through) the giant roof.
Rock	Wholesome Fullback buttress, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV	Amber	North America	5.10c, 4p	**	04/28/08	Starts with the finger crack of Wholesome fullback, then weaves a really fun and varied second pitch on great rock.
Rock	Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV	Mountain Beast	North America	5.11-, 8p	***	04/25/08	Rated 11a in the Supplement to the Red Book and 10d in Handren's. You pick... Crux is a thin, well bolted traverse. Pitches 5 and 6 are excellent prototypical RR thin edge face climbing. Questionable rock on the last two pitches.
Rock	Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV	Black Magic	North America	5.8, 4p	***	04/24/08	Outstanding route (particularly p1) just right of the more famous Lotta Balls.
Rock	Solar Slab wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, Nv	Horndogger Select + Sundog	North America	5.8, 3p + 5.9+, 5p	*	04/22/08	So-so combo. Horndogger is a logical start to reach Sundog but is a pretty poor route with very brittle rock. Sundog is pretty good though.
Rock	Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV	Birdland & Big Horn	North America	5.7+, 5p & 5.8, 1p	****	04/20/08	Probably the best 5.7 at RR, and a striking pitch just to its left. Highly recommended combo.
Rock	Willow Springs, Red Rocks, NV	Peaches & Karate Crack	North America	Single pitch, 5.7 & 5.9	*	04/19/08	Two good single pitch routes, though Karate Crack is a bit short...
Rock	SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia	Waxman & Hard Rain	Australia	Single pitch, 11 & 10	**	04/11/08	Stopped at this popular crag again on our way back to Araps. Two good routes with incredibly steep climbing for the grade.
Rock	Barbican Wall and the Watchtower, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	Rapier (direct finish), Beezlebub, & Nerd's Day Out	Australia	19, 15, & 16	*	04/10/08	"Rapier" direct is the best line on Barbican Wall. Watchtower is a convenient crag near halls Gap with a few short trad and sport lines.
Rock	Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	Diane	Australia	18, 3p	****	04/08/08	Back to Mt Rosea for more very good multi-pitch cragging. Diane is outstanding! Martin Eden also good (and hard) despite questionable first pitch.
Rock	Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	Martin Eden	Australia	19, 3p	**	04/08/08
Rock	Mt Arapiles, VA, Australia	Trad (several)	Australia	13 to 20, 1 to 4p	**	03/26/08 to 04/06/08 and 04/12/08	A bit disapointed with "the best crag in the universe" (as Aussies call it). Steep climbing on not-so-good- looking rock. A few good natural lines. Great camping. Probably the best crag in Victoria because of its convenience and the number of easy lines of good quality (12 and under). Lacks good climbs in the 16-17 range. Stiff grades.
Rock	Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	La Debutante	Australia	15, 5p	**	03/21/08 to 03/23/08	Best multi-pitch climbing in the Grampians (and in the crags we visited in Australia). Amazing fine-grained rock.
		The Last Rites	Australia	19, 3p	****
		Heretic	Australia	17, 3p	***
Rock	Barbican Rock, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	The Lonely Race	Australia	19, 2p	**	03/20/08	Some loose rock, but a good line up pretty orange rock.
Rock	The Bundaleer, Central Grampians, VA, Australia	Scarab	Australia	12, 2-3p	****	03/19/08	Interesting and varied climbing. One of the best multi-pitch at the crag.
		Blimp	Australia	20, 1p	***		The area classic. A striking corner, short but very strenuous.
		Gerontian	Australia	17, 3p	*		OK route.
Rock	Mt Stapylton Amphitheater, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia	Sluice/Navarre	Australia	17, 3p	**	03/11/08	Two good and well protected natural lines. Navarre requires balancy lieback moves. Simpleton follows a striking corner with more burly climbing.
Rock		Simpleton	Australia	18, 2p	***	03/11/08
Rock	SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia	Trad (several)	Australia	10 to 17, 1p	***	03/10/08	Most popular crag in the Grampians. Very crowded. Nice climbing.
Hike	Mt Kosciuszko, Kosciuszko N.P., Australia	Main Range Track & Summit Trail (loop)	Australia	hike (22km)	*	03/07/08	Pleasant hike through alpine (!) terrain leads to highest summit in Australia. Very crowded summit barely at the altitude of Los Alamos!
Rock	Mt Buffalo, VA, Australia	Where Angels Fear to Thread	Australia	17, 5p (19 direct start)	**	03/05/08	The moderate classic of the area. A good route if you like offwidths and rough granite. Even with taped hands and ankle-high crack shoes, we left a lot of skin on this one! Our ropes got pretty worn too.
Rock	Mt Buffalo, VA, Australia	Banana (?) Crack	Australia	16, 1p	-	03/02/08	A short crack route, that tops out at the paragliding ramp.
Rock	Sublime Point , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia	Sweet Dreams (17 finish)	Australia	17, 3-5p	*	02/26/08	Longing for a mutlipitch route, we decided to go for this one. Somewhat of a local classic. An OK route but not exceptional by any measure.
Rock	Zigzag Crag, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia	Sport (several)	Australia	Single pitch, 17 to 19	-	02/24/08	Pumpy face climbing on carrot bolts...
Rock	Big Top , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia	Sport	Australia	Single pitch, 17 to 19	NR	02/23/08	An out-of-the-way crag with bolted sport and trad routes. Climbed a tough bolted chimney. Backed off another route with dangerous fall potential.
Rock	Mt Piddington, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia	Trad (several)	Australia	Single pitch, 13 to 21	****	02/22/08	A few great crack lines. Best trad climbing we found in the Blueys.
Rock	Mt York, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia	Trad and sport (several)	Australia	Single pitch, 14 to 18	*	02/17/08 to 02/18/08	Mostly steep and pumpy climbing on carrots bolts! A few trad lines as well.
Rock	Castle Rock, Christchurch, NZ	Trad (several)	New Zealand	Single pitch, 15 to 18	**	02/06/08	Tallest crag near Christchurch. A couple of worthwhile routes.
Rock	Kapiti, Christchurch, NZ	Trad (several)	New Zealand	Single pitch, 15 to 18	*	02/03/08	One of the small crags near Christchurch. Convenient and very popular.
Rock	Mihiwaka, Dunedin, NZ	Trad (several)	New Zealand	Single pitch, 15 to 18	*	01/30/08	Nice little crag. Close to Dunedin, one of our favourite cities in NZ because of its large student population and despite its awful weather.
Alpine Rock	Saber, Darran Mountains, NZ	North Face (attempt)	New Zealand	Grade III, 18, 10p (not completed)	**	01/18/08 to 01/21/08	A Darran classic. Expect to suffer on the long and occasionally technical approach. Decided to bail halfway up because of finicky weather and the fact that Eric had somehow dropped his belay device.
Snow & Ice	Mt Tasman (& Lendenfeld), Fox Glacier, NZ	North Shoulder via Mt Lendenfeld	New Zealand	glacier travel, up to 60° snow & ice	*****	01/11/08	A very exposed ice arete on a beautiful mountain (2nd highest peak)...complete with chopper access to the door of the hut.
Alpine Rock	Mt Barnicoat, Fox Glacier, NZ	Moonshine Buttress	New Zealand	Grade III, 19, 7p	**	01/09/08	Striking line, obvious from Pioneer Hut, but very mediocre (loose and runout) climbing. Great views of Mt Tasman though.
Alpine Rock	Moir's Mate, Darran Mountains, NZ	Bowen-Allen Corner	New Zealand	Grade III, 18, 6p	**	01/05/08	An exposed knife edge ridge leads to the base of the climb. A 1-day Darran classic. Last two pitches are good. Expect steep tuffa (grass) moves and crappiness on the bottom pitches.
Rock	Mount Horrible, near Timaru, NZ	Various (trad)	New Zealand	14 to 20	*	01/01/08	Crack climbing on good clean basalt, but the routes are incredibly short.
Rock	Mount Somers, NZ	Christian Principals & Orange Wall	New Zealand	Single pitch trad cragging, 15 to 21	*	12/28/07 to 12/30/07	Basalt column climbing. A long hike (3hrs) leads to too few quality climbs. Not worth the effort unless spending the night at the hut appeals to you (nice hut but crowded).
Rock	Wye Creek, Queenstown, NZ	Various (sport)	New Zealand	14 to 20	*	12/25/07	More of an outdoor gym than anything else. Nice views of the lake.
Snow & Ice	Tititea (aka Mt Aspiring), Aspiring N.P., NZ	Southwest Ridge	New Zealand	glacier travel, up to 60° snow & ice (AI3), rock (~10), mixed (~M4)	*****	12/18/07 to 12/20/07	THE striking line up a gorgeous mountain. A definite must-do.
Rock	Diamond Crag, Wanaka Rock, NZ	Various (sport and trad)	New Zealand	17 to 20	***	12/14/07	A shady and out of the way crag. Good mix of slab, thin edging, and crack climbing.
Rock	Hospital Crag and The Tombstone, Wanaka Rock, NZ	Various (sport)	New Zealand	14 to 19	**	12/13/07	The most popular crag in Wanaka.
Snow & Ice	Mount Barff, Aspiring N.P., NZ	(attempt)	New Zealand	Grade III, glacier travel, up to 50° snow	***	12/08/07 to 12/10/07	Nice climb with great views of Aspiring. Had to turn around 3/4 way up due to deep soft snow.
Hike	Avalanche Peak, Arthur's Pass, NZ	Avalanche Peak Track (up) & Scott's Track (down)	New Zealand	Hike (some 3rd class)	**	12/03/07	Nice hike with great views of Rolleston and friendly keas (wild parrots).
Snow & Ice	Mt Rolleston, Arthur's Pass, NZ	Otira Slide	New Zealand	Grade II, 45° snow	**	12/02/07	Good training route with easy access from Arthur's Pass.
Rock	Charleston, NZ	Main Wall	New Zealand	18	*	11/28/07	Sea cliff climbing. Beautiful but spooky place. Make sure the Tasman is relatively calm or you'll get soaked! The pro is marginal in places.
Rock	Pohara, near Payne's Ford, NZ	Various (sport)	New Zealand	18-19	*	11/25/07 and 11/26/07	One star for the setting, by the sea. Weird climbing on limestone slopers.
Snow & Ice	Taranaki (aka Mt Egmont)	East Ridge	New Zealand	Grade II, up to 55° snow & ice	***	11/17/07	Great line up a classic volcano. Recommended.
Snow & Ice	Ruapehu (Tahurangi, highest summit), Tongariro N.P., NZ	Skyline Ridge	New Zealand	Grade II, 40° snow	**	11/11/07	Nice introduction to NZ ice.
Hike	Tongariro, Tongariro N.P., NZ	Regular route (South-East Ridge)	New Zealand	hike	*	11/09/07	Lucie climbed this peak when she hiked the Tongariro Crossing by "herself" - just along with another 200 people.
Hike	Ngauruhoe, Tongariro N.P., NZ	Regular route (from Mangatepopo saddle)	New Zealand	3rd class, 30° snow	**	11/08/07	Non-technical but tedious hike on scoria slope leads to the summit. Classical volcano cone.
Rock	Whanganui Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ	Various routes on Wekenui (aka Main Wall)	New Zealand	Trad cragging (17 to 21)	***	11/02/07	Good mix of crack and face climbing by the lake on a Maori reserve.
Rock	Kawakawa Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ	Crack Wall & The Point	New Zealand	Trad cragging (17 to 19)	**	10/30/07	Good crack climbing. The lake setting at the point is pretty spectacular too (as is the via-ferrata-style approach).
Rock	Kinloch, Lake Taupo, NZ	K1 Wall	New Zealand	Sport cragging	-	10/29/07	Something to do on an afternoon by the lake.
Rock	Waipapa, North Island, NZ	Main Wall	New Zealand	Trad cragging (17 to 19)	**	10/26/07	Small crag but some of the best trad climbing we found in NZ.
Rock	Froggat Edge, Wharepapa South, North Island, NZ	Main Wall	New Zealand	Sport Cragging (14 to 19)	**	10/24/07 and 10/25/07	Pleasant sport climbing in a very pastoral setting.
Rock	Tieton River	Wildcat Wall	North America	Trad cragging (up to 10a)	***	09/09/07	Another good crag at Tieton River. Did not get to do the super classic Wildcat Crack. Hopefully, we'll be back.
Rock	Tieton River, WA	Ride the Lightning	North America	5.9, 7p, PG	NR	09/07/07	Really bad rock on the upper pitches. Not recommended. Just do the first two pitches if you really must!
Rock	Goat Wall, Mazama, WA	Restless Natives	Cascades	5.11c (or 10d/A0), 10p	***	09/01/07	Another good long clip-up on the Goat Wall near Mazama. Better route than Sisyphus in our opinion.
Snow & Ice	Eldorado Peak	East Ridge	Cascades	Grade II, glacier travel, up to 35° snow	***	08/26/07 to 08/28/07	A consolation prize after abandoning our original objective to climb Early Morning Spire (for reasons of bad strategy). Great scenic route nonetheless.
Alpine Rock	Roan Wall, Darrington area	Center Stage (didn't finish last pitch)	Cascades	5.11a, 10p	***	08/22/07 to 08/24/07	Good slab route tucked away in a beautiful alpine cirque near Darrington.
Rock	Index	Princely Ambitions, Sagitarius, & Roger's Corner	Cascades	up to 10a	***	08/16/07	Just about the best rock you'll find anywhere, but the place feels dark and oppressive (not to mention wet...).
Apine Rock	Burgundy Spire, WA Pass, WA	Paisano Pinnacle & North Face	Cascades	Grade IV, 5.9, 12p	**	08/13/07	A nice way to climb Burgundy. The regular North Face route alone is not really worth it in our opinion.
Apine Rock	South Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA	Southwest Buttress	Cascades	Grade III, 5.8, 8p (5.10b var.)	***	08/09/07	A good day on SEWS. Three of the pitches are excellent. Easy descent.
Apine Rock	Inspiration Peak , Southern Pickets, WA	East Ridge	Cascades	Grade IV, 5.10, ~11p	***	07/30/07 to 08/02/07	Full-on alpine adventure in one of the most remote and scenic ranges in the Cascades. Some scary loose rock and an ugly rap descent...
Apine Rock	Chianti Spire, WA Pass, WA	Rebel Yell	Cascades	Grade III, 5.10, 7p	*****	07/27/07	Great climbing on a scenic spire. Terrific rock.
Apine Rock	Juno Tower (Vasiliki Ridge), WA Pass, WA	Clean Break	Cascades	Grade IV+, 5.10c, ~17p	****	07/25/07	A very good alpine climb. The 10c pitch is beauuutiful! A long ridge route on good rock and an easy descent.
Rock	Goat Wall, Mazama, WA	Sisyphus	Cascades	5.11a, 10p	**	07/21/07	A good clip-up. The rock is not as clean as on "Prime Rib", except for the crux pitches.
Rock	Goat Wall, Mazama, WA	Prime Rib	Cascades	5.9, 11p	***	07/19/07	Good moderate clip-up.
Apine Rock	The Minuteman, WA Pass, WA	East Face	Cascades	Grade III, 5.10a, 7p	**	07/16/07	Two short pitches of great rock climbing, but a lot of "unpleasantness" getting to and back down from it.
Apine Rock	Lexington Tower, WA Pass, WA	East Face	Cascades	Grade III, 5.9, 9p	***	07/14/07	Good climbing but deteriorating rock in the upper pitches.
Apine Rock	North Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA	Northwest Corner (TR from our 2003-2004 bus trip)	Cascades	Grade III, 5.9, 6p	****	07/11/07	One of the cleanest routes at WA Pass.
Apine Rock	North Twin Sister, WA	West Ridge	Cascades	3rd and 4th class rock, 45° snow	**	07/08/07	The main attracti