
Latest News
This page contains quick news items, and gives the most up-to-date information on our whereabouts.
| When? | What's up? |
| June 26, 2008 | Just arrived in Bishop; took advantage of our first opportunity in many days to update the site again. |
| June 25, 2008 |
Reluctantly left the Needles after finally climbing White Punks on Dope, on Voodoo Dome (quite good). We're making our way North (slowly... we kind of like CA granite!) along the Eastern Sierra. We've decided to focus on the multipitch cragging this time (we did several of the classic alpine routes on previous trips many years ago). First stop: Whitney Portal. |
| June 14, 2008 | Just arrived at the Needles. We were here 6 years ago on the inaugural trip with our bus. Magical place! |
| June 9, 2008 | Perfect weather, white granite, what's not to like? Maybe we're liking this place too much... We'll probably be here (Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks) until the end of the week before we move on to the Needles. Just posted another update. |
| June 2, 2008 | Still at Tahquitz. We found a great place to camp nearby (for free of course). After a couple of days in the 80's, temperatures dropped to the 40's, and it snowed! This kept us from climbing for a few days (but gave us time to finally work on this website). We're climbing again now, in gorgeous sunny and cool weather. |
| Since May 17, 2008 | The last few days at RR were really hot. Summer is coming already. We decided to move on. The plan is to visit several areas in California (Tahquitz, Needles, various crags in the Eastern Sierras, Tuolumne Meadows), before heading North for the summer. We arrived at Tahquitz today. Might stay a week or two, depending on weather. |
| April 19 - May 15, 2008 | We're living in the bus again and are climbing at Red Rocks. Doing more obscure routes, some recently published ones, and repeating some old classics. The desert is so beautiful this time of the year. All the cacti and flowers are in bloom. We had amazing weather for a full month, with only a few days with strong winds. |
| April 16, 2008 | Flying back to the US from Melbourne, Australia. Anxious to get back to our bus... |
| February 13 - April 16, 2008 | We spend 2 months in South-Eastern Australia, starting in Sydney and ending in Melbourne. This time we rent a van (buying is more difficult for visitors in Australia, particularly if you have to sell in a different province on your way out). We climb in the Blue Mountains, Mt Buffalo, the Grampians and Arapiles. We also visit Sydney and Melbourne for a couple of days each. The weather is rainy in the Blueys, then really hot in the Grampians when we first arrive. We take a break from climbing (and the hot weather) by driving the Great Ocean Road and visiting Mt Eccles National Park to see koalas. |
| February 13, 2008 | Flying to Sydney, Australia. |
| September 20, 2007- Februray 12, 2008 |
We spend 5 months in New Zealand, climbing but also touring the North and South islands. We start with the North Island. After a couple of days in Auckland buying a suitable campervan, we head North at the end of September, visiting Northland, the Coromandel, and the Bay of Islands. We also hit several cragging spots near Wharepapa, before driving to Lake Taupo for more cragging at Kinloch, Kawakawa Bay and Whanganui. By then, it's the beginning of Spring, time to hit the mountains! We start with the volcanoes in the North Island: climb the North island highest point, Ruapehu and Taranaki, another volcano near New Plymouth. We then take the ferry to the South island and make our way to the Southern Alps, hitting a few other crags along the way (Paynes Ford, Poahara and Charleston). We also sea kayak for the first time near Abel Tasman National Park. Arthur's Pass is our next stop. Mt Rolleston provides a good conditioning climb and we see our first keas (wild alpine parrots) while hiking up the steep slopes of Avalanche Peak. We keep going south to Wanaka. There, we climb the Southwest ridge of Mt Aspiring, a striking line up the most beautiful mountains in the Southern Alps. Later, we climb the classic ice arete of Mt Tasman (North Shoulder) from Pioneer Hut, and Moonshine Buttress, a classic NZ alpine rock route. We also climb in the Darrans before heading back to Christchurch to sell our campervan. |
| September 19, 2007 |
Crossed the international date line… so this day never happened! |
| September 18, 2007 |
Flying to Auckland, NZ. We drive the bus and the jeep to the storage where they will stay for the next seven months. We then drive to the airport and fortunately get there very early. Somehow, a glitch between Air NZ and United had prevented our tickets from being confirmed on United's computer system. Don't ask. It takes 3 hours to get us checked in! It gets done at the last minute, we almost miss our flight to LA. Ah the joy of air travel! Quick one to Los Angeles, then a 12 hour "hop" to NZ. Very good seats fortunately, and good on-demand, in-flight entertainment made things go quickly. |
| September 15-17, 2007 |
We move to a small, pleasant RV park to ease the preparations for NZ. Spend a full day pulling all the gear out, selecting, spreading and checking, then weighing the end result. Looks like we're within 5lb of our airline allocation. A bit of elimination should get us there... |
| September 10, 2007 |
Starting the long drive to Las Vegas. We arrive in Parhump three days later after making a few stops at climbing shops along the way. We just realized we need to buy new crampons... |
| September 7-9, 2007 |
Continuing our journey South, we stop for a couple of days at Tieton River for some cragging. We climb "Ride the Lightning", a multipitch 5.9 on Goose Egg Mountain. The upper pitches are really loose and of dubious quality... not recommended. Just do the first two pitches if you must! We also start packing for our upcoming trip to New Zeland and Australia. |
| September 1-5, 2007 |
Heading South. We are scheduled to fly to New Zealand from Las Vegas on September 21 and we have a zillion things to do, including finding a place to store the bus and the jeep while we are gone. Anyway, after our last alpine trip, we just about had it with alpine climbing! At least for a while. We spend a couple of days in Winthrop mountain biking. We also climb "Restless Native" (5.11c, 10 pitches), another good one of Burdo's route on the Goat Wall. |
| August 26-28, 2007 | Good stable weather has finally arrived...We'd like to get one more long climb in before heading south to fly to New Zealand. We decide to give Early Morning Spire a try. Unfortunately, we opt for the Eldorado Creek to Triad col approach... big mistake. We don't make it to the base of the spire on the first day and decide to give up on the climb. Instead, we climb the East Ridge of Eldorado as a consolation prize. |
| August 22-24, 2007 | With only a two day weather window, we decide to go check out a relatively new route near Darrington. Mostly a slab, this route ascends a line on the Roan Wall and is tucked away in a beautiful alpine cirque. We wanted to do the linkup on the Salish Wall above, end up rapping after the 8th pitch of the Roan Wall, as the route is south facing and it is brutally hot. Late spring might work best if you want to do the link-up... |
| August 16-18, 2007 |
The weather is still unsettled. We are spending a couple of days cragging at Index while waiting for the next weather window. |
| August 7-13, 2007 | We're back at Washington Pass for some mellower (we hope) alpine climbing. It's reaaally cold. Feels like fall already; some of the nights have been frigid. We climb the Southwest Rib of SEWS on August 9. Two days later, we make a failed attempt at the NW Face of SEWS. We bail after a pitch and a half with frozen fingers and bruised egos. Tough route... Milder temperatures return a couple of days later and we climb Burgundy Spire using the Paisano Pinnacle/North Face link-up. |
| August 3-6, 2007 | After a full-on alpine adventure in the Pickets, we spend a couple days recovering in Seattle with our friends Clay and Donna. Airshow, Sea-fair, and lots of good food (and coffee). Our knees are aching. We don't even feel like doing much walking in the city's steep streets. |
| July 30-August 2nd, 2007 | The high pressure system is here to stay, so we head to the Southern Pickets, one of the most remote ranges in the Cascades, to climb the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak. |
| July 24-27, 2007 | The forecast is finally showing a couple of days of stable weather. We leave the bus at the Cutthroat Trailhead and head to the backountry to climb two WA Pass area classics: Clean Break and Rebel Yell. From a camp in Silver Star basin, below the east side of the Wine Spires, we climb Clean Break, a good ~18-pitch climb on Juno Tower and Rebel Yell, a great 6-pitch climb on Chianti Spire. Great fun, despite the horrendous mosquitoes! |
| July 19-21, 2007 | The weather is not improving, so we drive down to Mazama in search of better weather. We climb two good clip-ups on Goat Wall: Prime Rib and Sisyphus. |
| July 18, 2007 |
We've been at Washinton Pass for about a week now. The weather has been pretty good, although today it is raining hard and it doesn't look like it's gonna get good again for a few days. So far we've done the Northwest Corner of NEWS (again), the East Face of Lexington Tower, and the East Face of Minuteman Tower. |
| July 9, 2007 | I think we've given up on snow and ice for now. It's just too warm. We're headed for WA Pass for some rock! |
| June 24, 2007 | Moving North to the vicinity of Shuksan, which we haven't climbed yet. We were initially hoping to do the NF, but the approach issues (bushwhacking...) and the very warm weather cooled our enthusiasm a bit. After another easy conditioning climb on Ruth Mountain (amazing views of Shuksan!), we figured we would ski the Sulphide Glacier instead. This was terrific fun, including good skiing! After that we climbed the West Ridge of North Twin Sister, a minor route in the same area. The fun part of that climb is the mountain bike approach (or, actually, going back down!). |
| June 21, 2007 | Questionable weather... we just moved to WA Pass to go find another conditioning climb on snow with a good chance of decent weather. Picked the Silverstar Glacier. Phew! That trail to Burgundy col is steeeep! |
| June 19, 2007 | We finally had a day of great weather. Climbed the East Wilmans Spire, near the ghost town of Monte Cristo, on the Mountain loop road. Long day! Damage to the road to Monte Cristo forced us to carry our bikes in sections. Lots of snow, starting just below Glacier Basin. Good step-kicking conditions. |
| June 15-17, 2007 | With weather too ugly to climb and a forecast that does not give us much hope either, we spent the weekend in Seattle, visiting with friends. It was the Solstice parade in Fremont; lots of fun. |
| Since June 11, 2007 | We've been stationed in Darrington for several days now. The weather has been really awful, with the exception of one day, when the sun pierced through the thick clouds long enough to allow us to climb at 3 O' Clock Rock. We're really here to try and get on some mountains, but the weather is simply not cooperating so far. |
| June 3-10, 2007 | Cragging at Tieton River. Excellent 1 to 2 pitch climbs on basalt columns. All grades (5.3 to 5.11), with lots of climbs in the 5.10 range. Best cragging in Washington in our opinion. |
| June 2nd, 2007 | Arrived at Tieton River after a stop in Yakima for groceries. Parked the bus on a pull-out just below the Royal Columns. The weather is really, really hot! Hope we'll be able to climb! |
| June 1st , 2007 | After stopping at Western Truck Equipment for an oil change (for the bus), we drive to Baker City, OR to spend the night. Baker City is an old mining town with a couple of buildings worth seeing if you are in the area. |
| May 31, 2007 | Heading to the Cascades for the summer - the cragging area near the Tieton River will be our first stop. We make it to Twin Falls that evening, just in time for a movie at the Orpheum Theatre, one of our favorite old movie theatres! |
| May 23-30, 2007 | We're kicking off the trip with a week of cragging at Little Cottonwood Canyon. We're just trying to get back to some sort of climbing shape. Lucie is still recovering from carpal-tunnel-related problems and has not been climbing since last summer. Deprived of my climbing parter, I have not been doing much either... We spend a week enjoying easy and moderate climbs on the superb LC granite. We also bike the Union Pacific Trail from Echo Lake to Park City and hike around Big Cottonwood Canyon. |
| May 22, 2007 |
Finally made it to Big Cottonwood Canyon near Salt Lake City, UT, late afternoon. We took our time driving and didn't do much along the way, except for checking out a couple of gear shops in Durango and Moab and sleeping like marmots - still recovering from last week's craziness (it took a lot of effort to move out of our appartment and into the bus and put all the stuff we left behind into storage). |
| May 20, 2007 | The 2007-2009 bus trip has begun! Left Los Alamos at 1:30 PM. Made it to our habitual spot in Durango (the Wal-Mart parking lot...) around 6 PM. |