After
our adventure in Eldorado Basin, we need to start thinking about heading south
toward Las Vegas where we are flying to NZ in less than three weeks. We move
the bus from Newhalem to Winthrop to spend some time there mountain-biking
and sport climbing to wrap up the season. We have already climbed two long
clip-ups on the Goat Wall (Prime
Rib and "Sisyphus"), but we still have a third "best of"
to do: "Restless Natives".
 |
|
Mazama,
our favorite village in the Cascades.
|
|
 |
|
A
good approach trail starts just above Lucie.
|
|
 |
|
Restless
Natives follows an indistinct line first right, then left of the
water streak to the hanging forest above.
|
|
 |
|
Eric
on pitch 1 (10a).
|
|
 |
|
Looking
back toward the valley.
|
|
IOHO,
"Restless Natives" is clearly a better route than "Sisyphus".
Much more sustained at the (soft) grade. Mostly good climbing and tons of
bolts (even on the two easy 5.7 and 5.6 pitches). We thought the 2nd pitch
was 4th class and not 5.4. Atop pitch 4, the belay needs to be moved along
a ledge and across the water streak (cl 1, but exposed and wet). We linked
together pitch 5 (5.7) and 6 (5.6) because they appeared to be doable as one.
It turns out that they are about 30m and 35 m long, respectively, and linking
them requires the follower to simul-climb through the 5.7 crux move. Probably
best not to link them. BTW, on the way down, a few feet of downclimbing (exposed
cl3) are required to reach the anchors atop pitch 5.
 |
|
Lucie
following pitch 3 (10b).
|
|
 |
|
Reaching
the belay.
|
|
 |
|
Pitch
4 is also 10b.
|
|
 |
|
The
exposed but easy traverse to move the belay atop pitch 4.
|
|
 |
|
Eric
linking pitches 5 and 6.
|
|
The first
crux of the route (5.10d, pitch 8) does not stand out much; we both climbed
through the pitch without noticing much of a crux. Pitch 9 is advertised at
10a but seems a bit harder. We would rate it 10b/c. The crux of the route
comes in the last pitch (5.11c or 5.10b-A0). That pitch is of much lower quality
than the rest of the climb. Also, with (only!) 17 draws, we were forced to
split it into two pitches: one easy pitch to below the bulgy 5.11 roof, then
another up the roof and to the top. Neither of us really freed that section
(some key holds are inobvious). I hangdogged and finally made it through without
aiding. Lucie hung a couple of times as well while pulling through the very
steep bulge. According to the information we had, the route ends here. We
noticed more bolts on an easy ramp above but did not go up any further.
 |
|
Eric
starting pitch 7 (10a we thought, not 10b as advertised).
|
|
 |
|
Higher
on pitch 7
|
|
 |
|
Eric
on pitch 8 (10d).
|
|
 |
|
Views
from the belay.
|
|
 |
|
Pitch
9 (?)
|
|
The descent
is straightforward yet tedious: 11 raps from good chain anchors (we only had
one 60m rope this time).
On the
way down, we found a better, well travelled trail back to the road. To find
it, go 85 yards south along the road from the south end of the swimming hole
parking area (do not go up the fainter trail right across from the pullout).
 |
|
About
to pull the steep bulge on the last pitch (11c, p10).
|
|
 |
|
Views
from the summit.
|
|
 |
|
Starting
the long but straightforward rap descent.
|
|
 |
|
Hiking
back to the car.
|
|
 |
|
Mazama
from Highway 20.
|
|
Approach
notes: Start 80m south of the south end of the swimming hole parking pullout.
Obvious, well-travelled trail. Do not go up the fainter trail right across
from the pullout.
Gear
notes: 60m rope + 17 draws + daisy chain or longer runners for rap descent.
