We're
at Washington Pass and the weather is not cooperating. Two days ago, between
rain drops, we managed to climb Prime
Rib, a good moderate clip-up on the Goat Wall near Mazama. We decide to
go back to the Goat Wall for more sport-climbing, this time to climb Sisyphus,
a 10-pitch 5.11a.
The forecast
is for mostly cloudy skies but little chance of rain. We get a moderately
early start and drive to Mazama.
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Sisyphus
is a decent clip-up on the Goat Wall near Mazama. The rock looks
ugly but the climbing is pretty fun.
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Going
up scree slopes leading...
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...to
the fixed rope and the base of the route.
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Eric
starting the first pitch (5.7).
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Higher
on pitch 1.
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The approach
is short but steep, ending with a bit of 4th class up a fixed rope.
Nice gradual
increase in difficulty, from the first 5.7 pitch, to a 5.9, then a 5.10a/b
(pretty steep, a bit awkward, but fun). The rock is a bit more slabby and
the holds more slopy than on Prime Rib (more flowing water, I think), and
it is a little less clean (again, more water equals more vegetation/moss;
and of course, being much harder it receives much less traffic).
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Starting
pitch 2 (p1 and 2 can be combined - we didn't).
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Pitch
3 (10a/b) is steep and a bit akward, but fun.
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Higher
on pitch 3.
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Pitch
4 (5.2) is a ledge hike.
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Looking
down the valley.
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Pitch
4 is a ledge hike, which leads to the upper wall.
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Pitch
5 is another easy pitch (5.8).
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Eric
starting the crux pitch...
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...a
good 5.10 pitch with a move or two of soft 5.11a.
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At
the belay, atop pitch 6.
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More
views.
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From here,
one longish 5.8 pitch leads to the business: a steep and very thin (but short)
5.11a pitch; first leftward for 3 bolts at 5.10a or so, then right at 5.11a
(fun), then left again at 5.10b/c. Fun pitch! Extremely well protected. Eric
flashes it without any problem (soft ratings...). I follow, finding it fun
as well.
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Pitch
7...
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...starts
with a 5.9 mantle.
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Higher
on pitch 7. Pitch 8 is 3rd class (no pic).
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Starting
pitch 9.
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Higher
on pitch 9.
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Four more
decent pitches lead to a huge ledge (the base of Diamond Point Buttress) and
the end of the climb.
A very
well engineered rap route leads back to the packs (12 raps with one 60m rope).
If we were to do it again, we'd climb on doubles, to eliminate a few raps.
Other than that, take 13 draws and a couple of lockers (no gear needed at
all).
Overall
a pretty good route, not a classic by any means, but a good wet weather alternative
to WA Pass.
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Taking
a break.
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The
final pitch (p10, 5.6).
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Starting
the well-engineered rap descent.
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Back
at the base, 12 raps later.
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Hiking
back to the car.
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Approach
notes: The trail starts 2.9 miles from Mazama. Go left at double cairns.
Head toward a big ponderosa tree.
Gear
notes: 60m rope + 13 draws + daisy chain or longer runners for rap descent.
Double ropes would reduce the number of raps on the descent.
Topo:
can be obtained from the guide service (North Cascades Mountain Guides)
in Mazama (they keep a bunch of copies outside their door). Also heard rumors
about a new guidebook from Brian Burdo which will include routes on the Goat
Wall. Might be out by now (June '08).
