We have
a leisurely start. The route is 7 to 8 pitches long and quite sustained, but
we'd rather not be climbing in the sun for very long. We expect the route
to come into shade around noon. There is only one vehicle at the trailhead
when we arrive around 9AM. Along the hike-in, we spot two parties: one on
Frogland,
and one on Dream
of Wild Turkeys. I guess they car-pooled. We take our time getting ready
on the sunny sandstone ledges at the base of the wall.
The first
pitch is short and ends at the ledge below the beautiful varnished triangular
corner. The only difficulty on this pitch is the steep but short lie-back
flake (5.8+). Protecting the flake is a bit tricky but not too bad.
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On
the approach trail to Black Velvet Canyon after a leisurely start.
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The
route follows corners and crack systems, right of the huge roof.
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On
the short 5.8+ pitch that leads to the good ledge at the base
of the beautiful varnished corner.
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Pitch
2 tackles the varnished corner.
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It's
a great pitch and one of the cruxes of the route (5.10a).
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The second
pitch tackles the beautiful varnished corner (bolt protected) and is one of
the first cruxes of the route. I might have done one or two moves of laybacking
but mostly face climb and stem up the corner. The travese left at the apex
of the triangle invoves one tricky face move. Above that, you're following
a good easy crack (5.7ish?) to a small stance by a tree.
We get
into the shade by the end of p2. We'd climbed this route a long time ago,
but didn't remember much about it. We're both pleasantly surprised. It's a
really great one. Varied and sustained, on amazing rock.
The third
pitch is much easier than it looks (and than the description makes it sound...).
I do not find it awkward, contrary to what the guidebook says. It's steep
but the holds and the pro are all there. I stop at the intermediate anchor
of pitch 3. I should probably have belayed higher up but I was afraid of rope
drag.
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The
third pitch is easier (5.8) and traverses right to a crack leading
to an anchor.
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Just
above the intermediate anchor on pitch 3.
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Starting
up the 5.7 handcrack of pitch 4.
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Reaching
the bolted anchor atop pitch 4.
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Starting
pitch 5, a very good pitch, following a 5.9 handcrack.
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The end
of pitch 3 follows a crack (2 bolts) and moves left to another good ledge
and a bolted anchor.
Pitch
4 is straightforward and follows a 5.7 crack. This pitch is short enough that
you could probably combine it with the second half of pitch 3, from the intermediate
anchor. I just did short pitches instead.
Next comes
one of the best pitches of the route (p5). A great 5.9 crack. Long and sustained.
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About
to traverse left into the parallel cracks.
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Starting
the crux pitch (p6, 5.10a).
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This
pitch is longer and more committing than pitch 2.
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Just
above the crux.
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The
last pitch is short and a bit slabby (5.9+).
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The second
5.10a pitch (p6) is much more comitting and sustained than pitch 2. It follows
a steep crack (5 bolts) to the base of a shallow corner. Liebacking the corner
is the crux, but I found traversing right to the anchor a bit tricky too (or
maybe I was just tired...).
We rap
straight down, through the anchor at the lip of the huge roof. A great day.
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Rapping
down the route.
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Hiking
back to the car with Las Vegas in the background.
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Note:
one of the belay/rap anchors on the route (about half way up, cannot remember
exactly which one) is missing a nut. The anchor has a double Fixe bolt anchor
with connecting chain and steel ring, and an additional bolt with screw links.
The bottom bolt of the Fixe anchor is missing the nut, so the whole thing
is hanging from the chain and the upper bolt. Still safe, but could use a
3/8" nut and washer (galvanized, I think).
