It's the last day of our second trip in the Bugaboos. The past couple of days, we climbed Surf's Up and the mega-classic Sunshine Crack (both on Snowpatch Spire). We decide to finish with the shorter "Paddle Flake Direct" on Crescent Spire, near Mc Tech Arete.
The weather is absolutely gorgeous and Paddle Flake is a great climb! You gotta love those 5.10 squeeze chimneys though! The climbing is pretty sustained on amazing rock (all first 5 pitches are in the 5.10 range). Eric leads all the pitches. This is so much more like cragging than alpine climbing! Love it!
We're back at camp around 4PM. Most everybody has left; such contrast from this last weekend! We eat then pack up and leave. It's a VERY long knee-buster back down to the car.
Once in Radium, we have the worst ever "pizza" at Rockies Pizzeria. Really disgusting - but we're so hungry and it's the only place still openů We then drive back to Invermere, go get the bus out of storage, and still have to stop to dump and refill the tanks. It's a long evening...
Crescent Spire, Paddle Flake
|Looking up Crescent Spire.|
|The route follows crack and chimney systems left of the arete.|
|Pitch 1 follows a clean finger crack left of the main dihedral (5.10).|
|Reaching the belay on pitch 1.|
|Snowpatch and Pigeon Spire.|
|Eric starting up pitch 2 (5.10-).|
|Higher on pitch 2.|
|Posing at the belay with Bugaboo Spire in the background.|
|Eric about to be swallowed by the Paddle Flake (Pitch 3, 5.10-)|
|Setting up the belay.|
|It's now my turn to suffer...|
|Eric on pitch 4, a strenuous but stellar pitch (5.10).|
|Looking back toward climbers on Mc Tech Arete.|
|Eric starting up pitch 5 (5.10).|
|Higher on pitch 5.|