The Climbs

This is supposed to be about a climbing trip, so here it is. Most climbs have links into trip report pages with photographs. Listed in reverse chronological order (most recent at top). If you're looking for a particular route by name, use your browser's search tool to locate it (in Microsoft Internet Explorer click on >Edit >Find).

Note that commitment grades are for comparison only. We roughly adopted Nelson and Potterfield's scale from their guidebook "Selected Climbs in The Cascades", then used our judgment to make grades in other mountain ranges consistent with those in the Cascades. These grades do not include time spent approaching a high camp, when one was used.

Quality ratings are of course entirely subjective and range from one to five stars.

For a summary of climbs we've done before this trip, check our climbing resume.

Type Location/Peak Route(s) Map Rating

Quality

Date
Remarks
Rock ????, East Cochise Stronhold, AZ Various (sport) North America, year 2 wide range
*
11/25/04
Another new sport cliff recently developed at Cochise. So-so climbing on uninspiring rock.
Rock Isle of You, Cochise Stronhold, AZ Various (sport) North America, year 2 wide range
***
11/24/04
Sunny single-pitch sport climbs on good looking cliffs. Totally unlike the rest of Cochise climbing.
Rock End Dome, Cochise Stronghold, AZ Days of Future Passed North America, year 2 5.9, A0, 4p
***
11/20/04
A real "classic": long approach, a bit sandbagged, very runout, and complete with wide cracks...
Rock East Cochise Stronghold, AZ Beeline & Unknown North America, year 2 5.9, 2p & 5.10c, 4p
****
11/19/04
Some of the highest quality climbing at the Stronghold. The unknown new route is the first one (mostly bolted) just right of the arete on the RHS of Beeline. Highly recommended.
Rock East Cochise Stronghold, AZ The Wasteland North America, year 2 5.8, 5p
**
11/17/04
Somehow this climb has achieved classic status and is very popular. There's some fun climbing on steep chickenheads.
Rock Entrance Dome, East Cochise Stronghold, AZ Batline & Unknown North America, year 2 5.9, 1p each
***
11/16/04
A couple of short routes right off your bumper. Batline is pretty fun.
Rock King Dome, Crown King, AZ Several North America, year 2 5.9 and 5.10
***
11/11/04
One of the most remote crags we've ever visited! 26 miles of dirt and a bit of rough 4WD leads to a good selection of bolted granite slab routes on a small dome. Mostly 5.10 and a bit heady.
Rock Sedona, AZ The Mace North America, year 2 5.9+, 5p
*****
11/05/04
A really fun route on a great sandstone tower. Unique step-across move at the top. Better love those chimneys...
Rock Granite Mountain, Prescott, AZ Reunion, via the first two pitches of Said and Done North America, year 2 5.10, 5p
****
10/31/04
The best 5.10 combination at the crag. The incredible finger crack of the Reunion pitch is the highlight. The second pitch (rated 5.9+) is the proverbial sandbag.
Rock Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV Dream of Wild Turkey via The Gobbler variation North America, year 2 5.10, 8p
*****
10/24/04
One of our two favorite routes on the wall. Very varied: slab, crack, chimney, steep face, and all on the best rock!
Rock Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV Wholesome Fullback North America, year 2 5.10, 2p
****
10/23/04
Outstanding route! Crack, offwidth, and chimney fun. Thin finger crack crux
Rock Ice Box Canyon, Red Rocks, NV Frigid Air Buttress North America, year 2 5.9+, 11p
***
10/16/04
Some really fun and interesting climbing, unfortunately broken by large bushy ledges. A good-looking line from the road, though.
Rock Ragged Edges Cliff, Willow Spring Area, Red Rocks, NV Ragged Edges & Plan F (1st pitch) North America, year 2 5.8, 2p & 5.10, 1p
***
10/14/04
Just a bit of cragging for a change. Ragged Edges is the classic, obvious line; The first pitch of Plan F is a great 5.10 finger crack with a wicked exit move.
Rock Ice Box Canyon, Red Rocks, NV La Cierta Edad North America, year 2 5.10, 6p
****
10/12/04
A really fun route with a bit of everything, including a super-fun and well protected 5.9 chimney. Watch for some hollow rock and fragile flakes.
Rock Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley, CA Northeast Buttress North America, year 2 5.9, 13-14p
****
10/05/04
Good climb and a good line. Very physical. We found the squeeze pitches really sandbagged. Confusing route finding in the last 2 pitches.
Rock Royal Arches area, Yosemite Valley, CA Superslide North America, year 2 5.9, 5p
***
10/04/04
Looks great from Serenity Crack. Last three pitches are very good. Crumbly rock on the first two pitches.
Rock Royal Arches area, Yosemite Valley, CA Serenity Crack & Sons of Yesterday North America, year 2 5.10d, 8p
*****
09/30/04
Simply amazing! One of the very best pure rock routes we've ever done, anywhere.
Rock El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, CA East Buttress North America, year 2 5.10b, 12p
***
09/27/04
A few good pitches but a fair amount of awkward climbing... and you're not really on the chief...
Rock Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley, CA Central Pillar of Frenzy North America, year 2 5.9, 5p
*****
09/24/04
Probably the best 5.9 climbing in the valley. Extremely popular. The rock is getting a bit polished.
Rock Daff Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite NP, CA West Crack North America, year 2 5.9, 5p
*****
09/17/04
A really striking crack. Good climbing, and hard cruxes.
Rock Lembert Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite NP, CA Northwest Face Direct North America, year 2 5.10c, 4p
***
09/16/04
OK route on somewhat mossy rock. The crux is short but extremely slippery (keep your toes in the thin crack - smearing is hopeless).
Rock City of Rocks, Idaho Several routes North America, year 2 5.7 to 5.10c, 1 to 3 p
***
08/28/04 to 09/12/04
Great camping, beautiful scenery, and a few great climbs.
Alpine Rock Grand Sentinel, Banff National Park, AB Regular Route Canadian Alpine rock Grade II, 5.9, 4p
****
08/19/04
Striking quartzite spire begs to be climbed. Very good third pitch.
Alpine Mixed Mount Temple, Banff National Park, AB East Ridge Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV, 5.7, 5700ft total gain
*****
08/14/04
A great, varied alpine route! Lots of scrambling, some steep 5th class climbing on good quartzite, and a great snow/ice ridge finish. Trivial descent down the tourist trail.
Alpine Rock Mount Sir Donald, Glacier National Park, BC Northwest Ridge Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV, 5.4, 6500ft total gain
**
08/10/04
An amazing-looking ridge, rising 2500 vertical feet in a sharp arete from the Uto-Sir Donald col! We found the climbing pretty monotonous though. Difficult and locally dangerous descent.
Alpine Rock Crescent Spire, The Bugaboos, BC Paddle Flake Direct Canadian Alpine rock Grade II+, 5.10, 5-6p
****
08/02/04
Sustained, varied climbing on top-notch, sharp granite. Gotta love those 5.10 squeeze chimneys...
Alpine Rock Snowpatch Spire, The Bugaboos, BC Sunshine Crack Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV, 5.11-, 11p
*****
07/31/04
Long, sustained, and physical with hard cruxes. Do not underestimate this beautiful north-facing line... and pick a warm day.
Alpine Rock Snowpatch Spire, The Bugaboos, BC Surf's Up Canadian Alpine rock Grade III, 5.9, 7p
**
07/30/04
A reportedly popular climb on the west ridge of Snowpatch Spire. A fair bit of awkward climbing on rounded rock but the last three pitches are good.
Alpine Rock Crescent Spire, The Bugaboos, BC Mc Tech Arete Canadian Alpine rock Grade II, 5.10b, 6p
*****
07/26/04
Gorgeous white granite, sharp cracks, incredibly fun climbing. Enough said.
Alpine Rock Pigeon Spire, The Bugaboos, BC West Ridge Canadian Alpine rock Grade II, 5.4 ridge
****
07/24/04
It's been called the best 5.4 on earth ... not sure about that but certainly a beautiful ridge scramble, with excellent rock and gorgeous views.
Alpine Rock Bugaboo Spire, The Bugaboos, BC North-East Ridge Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV, 5.8, 12+p
****
07/23/04
One of the 50 classics. Good climbing along a striking ridge. A long day.
Alpine Rock Castle Mountain, AB Super Brewer (Ultra Brewer + Brewer Buttress combination) Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV+, 5.9, 22p
****
07/15/04
Probably one of the very best long routes in the Rockies. Patiently endure the awful first 4 pitches, then enjoy the great climbing above.
Alpine Rock Mount Louis, AB Gmoser Route Canadian Alpine rock Grade IV, 5.8, ~17p
**
07/12/04
A good-looking line on just about the best looking peak around... but the rock and the climbing are mediocre at best.
Alpine Rock Yamnuska, Rockies Front Range, AB Direttissima Canadian Alpine rock 5.8, 9p
**
07/06/04
Good old 1957 vintage 5.8... So-so rock, but we knew what to expect.
Scramble Mount Thielsen, OR West Ridge North America, year 2 Class 4 but mostly a hike
***
06/27/04
Really striking summit just begs to be climbed.
Hike Mount Mc Loughlin, OR East Ridge Trail North America, year 2 Just a hike
**
06/25/04
A minor volcano hidden deep in the forest.
Snow & Ice Mount Shasta, CA West Face Gully North America, year 2 Grade III, snow to 40°
***
06/20/04 to 06/21/04
Good looking mountain, beautiful high camp in Hidden Valley, loooong summit day.
Hike Lassen Peak, CA South Ridge Trail North America, year 2 Just a hike
*
06/16/04
The southernmost Cascade volcano. Just trying to get back in aerobic shape.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA East Wall North America, year 2 5.7, 3p
***
06/12/04
Had to finish off the classics before leaving the area. Fun route. Went up a variation just right of the last pitch to avoid the crowds.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Traveler's Buttress North America, year 2 5.9, 5p
****
06/11/04
A good route and one of the 50 Classics. We had climbed this several years earlier; the crux slot is interesting...
Rock Sugarloaf, near Kyburz, CA Farley & Blue Velvet North America, year 2

5.9, 1p & 5.10c, 3p

***
06/10/04
Two of the better routes on the cliff. Steep approach.
Rock Eagle Lake Cliff, Lake Tahoe, CA Several North America, year 2 5.10's
***
06/07/04
Good selection of single-pitch crack routes on excellent rock, and in a gorgeous location.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA East Corner North America, year 2 5.11b, 3p
***
06/04/04
A fun route. Good 5.7 first pitch followed by a thin 5.10a stem corner to the one-move 5.11b crux up a bulge.
Rock Main Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Corrugation Corner North America, year 2 5.7, 4p
*****
06/03/04
A fantastic route! Possibly the best at the leap. Unusually steep and spectacular for the grade.
Rock Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap, CA The Groove North America, year 2 5.8, 2p
**
06/03/04
Awkward series of mantle moves in - what else - a groove! First move off the ground is hard; be careful. Long runouts on 2nd pitch.
Rock The Hogsback, Lover's Leap, CA Hogwild & Better with Bacon North America, year 2 5.7, 1p & 5.8, 5p
*
06/01/04
Weird routes. Slight runouts on both.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA The Line North America, year 2 5.9, 3p
****
05/31/04
The area classic. The first pitch crack is the best: sustained and vertical with bomber pro.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Psychedelic Tree North America, year 2 5.9, 4p
**
05/31/04
Mc Namara calls it "The line's uglier sibling". Not as clean but pretty good. Wild last pitch.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Bear's Reach North America, year 2 5.7, 3p
*****
05/27/04
A great climb! Fun 5.7 flake liebacks, face moves, and cracks. Beware of a runout near the deck on the 1st pitch.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Tombstone Terror North America, year 2 5.10c, 2p
****
05/26/04
A hard climb for the grade we thought. Steep, sustained finger jams and stems in a thin corner.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Surrealistic Pillar Direct North America, year 2 5.10b, 3p
***
05/26/04
Acclaimed as a classic... not sure about that. First (direct) pitch is good and sustained. The rest is mostly runout dike hiking.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA East Crack North America, year 2 5.8, 3p
****
05/24/04
Very good climb; fairly even at the grade. Good intro to the area.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Scimitar North America, year 2 5.9, 3p
****
05/24/04
Great climb. A few tricky moves over bulges. Wild finish.
Rock East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Haystack, and an unnamed route. North America, year 2 5.8, 3p & 5.10a, 1p
****
05/22/04
Good climbing with hard cruxes. Very popular.
Rock Main Wall, Lover's Leap, CA Hospital Corner North America, year 2 5.10a, 2p
****
05/21/04
The 2nd pitch is the business: really great, steep corner.
Rock Calico Basin, Red Rocks, NV Atman North America, year 2 5.10b, 1/2p
*
05/17/04
Clean Indian-creek style tight hands crack in smooth rock. OK but very short.
Rock Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV Resolution Arete North America, year 2 Grade V, 5.10+ A1 (or 5.11+), 20+ pitches
***
05/12/04
Three stars for its super-classic status, the obvious line, and the adventure. The climbing itself is OK but not exceptional. A huge day: 19 hours car to car!
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV

Yellow Brick Road

North America, year 2 5.10c, 6p
*****
05/09/04
In our opinion the best route on the Black Velvet Wall. More varied than Prince of Darkness.
Rock Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV The Prince of Darkness North America, year 2 5.10c/d, 6p
****
05/07/04
Another repeat of a great classic. Has become a bit harder over the years due to wear. Second pitch is probably 5.10d now.
Rock Whiskey Peak, Red Rocks, NV Triassic Sands North America, year 2 5.10c, 6p
*****
05/06/04
A terrific crack climb we had climbed years ago. Just as good as we remembered it.
Rock Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA Lots of sport climbs in the Gorge North America, year 2 5.9 to 5.11b, 1 to 2p
****
04/19/04 to 05/03/04
We're back at the Gorge for a couple of weeks after reaching the 14-day limit at the RR campground.
Rock Solar Slab Area, Red Rocks, NV

Red Zinger & Beulah's Book

North America, year 2

5.10+, 2p & 5.9, 4p

****

04/16/04

A striking off-finger crack in a smooth dihedral; very Indian-Creek-like! Climbed "Beulah's Book" to round out our day. The second pitch (chimney) is really good and varied.
Rock Whiskey Peak, Red Rocks, NV

The Misunderstanding & Sand Felipe

North America, year 2

5.9, 2p & 5.10a, 1p

***

04/15/04

Cragging at Whiskey Peak.
Rock Icebox Canyon, Red Rocks, NV

Fold Out & Sensuous Mortician

North America, year 2

5.8, 1p & 5.9, 1p

**

04/14/04

Short climbing day on The Necromancer.
Rock First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV

Lotta Balls & Romper Room

North America, year 2

5.8, 3p & 5.7+, 1p

****

04/12/04

The name says it all! No, actually this climb is named for the tiny knobs on the marble face of the second pitch. A really fun climb!
Rock Mount Wilson (Aeolian Wall), Red Rocks, NV

Inti Watana

North America, year 2

5.10+, 12p

****

04/10/04

A great plumb-line route on Mount Wilson with a bit of everything from 5.8 to 5.10+. Tightly bolted on the 5.10 pitches, gear-protected elsewhere. Long and complex approach.
Rock Whisky Peak , Red Rocks, NV

Frogland & Raindance

North America, year 2

5.8-, 6p & 5.10+, 1p

*****

04/08/04

One of the best 5.8's at RR. Sustained and varied climbing, interesting route finding, easy approach and descent. A must do!
Rock Mescalito, Red Rocks, NV

Y2K

North America, year 2

5.10, 4p

**

04/07/04

Good route (although we wouldn't recommend the last 2 pitches). Nice face climbing on black varnished rock. Last pitch has a few moves up a thin 5.9 corner.
Rock Jackrabbit Buttress, Red Rocks, NV

Geronimo

North America, year 2

5.7, 5p

*****

04/05/04

Really fun and steep for its grade. One of the best 5.7's anywhere!
Rock Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA Lots of single pitch sport climbs in the Gorge North America, year 2 5.8 to 5.10+
****
03/21/04 to 04/01/04
Good place to get used to climbing rock again.
Waterfall Ice Icefields Parkway, AB Polar Circus Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 700m
****
03/14/04
The most famous climb in the Rockies. A nice long moderate climb. The last 5 pitches offer the best climbing.
Waterfall Ice Icefields Parkway, AB Right Hand, Lower Weeping Wall. Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 160m
****
03/13/04
As the name indicates, the right hand line on the Lower Weeping Wall. Good climbing on steep but thick ice.
Waterfall Ice Icefields Parkway, AB Left Hand, Lower Weeping Wall. Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 160m
****
03/11/04
The easiest line on the Lower Weeping Wall. A crowded classic! Still worthwhile given the short approach (10 minutes).
Waterfall Ice Columbia Icefields, AB Shades of Beauty & Memorial Falls Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 120m & WI5, 55m
***
03/06/04
Good routes sitting high on a cliff in the Beauty Creek drainage. Had the climbs to ourselves even though it was Saturday!
Waterfall Ice Icefields Parkway, AB Complete Weeping Wall (Lower & Upper): Central Pillar + Teardrop Canadian Rockies Ice WI5+, 160m & WI6, 180m
*****
03/04/04
Superb! Linking up the Lower and Upper Weeping Wall provides up to 8 pitches of stellar technical climbing... 10 minutes from the road! Simply amazing!
Waterfall Ice Stanley Headwall, BC Nemesis Canadian Rockies Ice WI6, 160m
*****
02/27/04
A Rockies mega-classic! Joe Josephson says: "Rarely are climbs as continuously steep as this one, averaging 85 throughout." He's right! With an approach over two hours, the hardest ice climb we've done so far!
Waterfall Ice North Ghost, AB This House of Sky Ghost WI3-4, 500m+
***
02/23/04
Short easy steps up a cute canyon lead to a large bowl. We climbed two longer and steeper pitches high in the cirque above. Lots of snow slogging between pitches.
Waterfall Ice Waiparous, AB Hydrophobia Ghost WI5+, 180m
*****
02/20/04
Classic! Spectacular, steep, and very sustained climbing in a beautiful setting. A must do!
Waterfall Ice Kananaskis Country, AB Whiteman Falls Canadian Rockies Ice WI6, 95m
****
02/15/04
A fine climb tucked at the far end of a unique narrow canyon. A bit of a disappointment considering its classic status. More like WI5+ when we climbed it.
Waterfall Ice South Ghost, AB Aquarius & Rainbow Serpent Ghost WI4, 60m & WI6, 100m
*****
02/13/04
A fine approach pitch (Aquarius) into the unique "Recital Hall" and the greatest, most impressive pillar we've ever seen: "Rainbow Serpent". Simply amazing!
Waterfall Ice Mount Rundle, Banff, AB Professor Falls Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 280m
****
02/11/04
Beautiful approach along the Bow River, great views of the valley, and good climbing. A moderate classic.
Waterfall Ice North Ghost, AB Phantom Falls Ghost WI4R, 40m
***
02/09/04
A good looking, narrow line. Does not often forms. Usually thin (R) when it does, but fat when we climbed it.
Waterfall Ice South Ghost, AB Wicked Wanda Ghost WI4+, 60m
****
02/08/04
The name says it all: wicked... A beautiful line with weird ice formations. An imposing climb when seen from the parking area at Devil's Gap.
Waterfall Ice South Ghost, AB Lacy Gibbet Ghost WI5, 300m
****
02/05/04
A long approach (3 hrs) to a long, stepped climb in the sun. A nice long day. The crux top pitch rarely forms but was fat when we climbed it.
Waterfall Ice Columbia Valley, BC Gibraltar Wall Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 170m
**
01/27/04
Easy access and lots of ice, but nondescript routes and snow ledges up a wide flow.
Waterfall Ice Columbia Valley, BC Raven's Call (TR) Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 45m
***
01/26/04
A wicked looking, tall and steep pillar in a deep recess. We only top-roped it.
Waterfall Ice David Thompson Highway, AB Kitty Hawk Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 200m
****
01/21/04
By far the most striking line along the DT highway. A beautiful climb. We found very difficult, brittle ice conditions.
Waterfall Ice David Thompson Highway, AB Eliott Left-Hand Gully Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 200m
***
01/17/04
Hard to see from the road because it is in a deep slot. A nice first pitch to easy snow and ice and a tall, steep pillar at the top.
Waterfall Ice David Thompson Highway, AB Five Seven Zero Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 100m
***
01/16/04
A good looking flow at the crest of a long ridge. A steep but short (25m) WI4 pillar leads to a long, enjoyable WI3 flow.
Waterfall Ice Field, BC Guiness Gully Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 245m
***
01/14/04
Not the most striking line from a distance, but the climbing is very enjoyable. Steep steps and long snow slopes to a very long top pitch.
Waterfall Ice Field, BC Pilsner Pillar Canadian Rockies Ice

WI6, 215m

****
01/12/04
The famed bottom pillar was thankfully fat and only WI5+ or so when we climbed it. Some really good climbing above as well.
Waterfall Ice South Ghost, AB Malignant Mushroom Ghost WI5, 55m
****
01/09/04
Really good looking single-pitch pillar with a short approach. Often wet. We got thoroughly soaked but liked it anyway.
Waterfall Ice North Ghost, AB The Sorcerer Ghost WI5, 180m
*****
12/22/03
An incredible climb: gorgeous line, incredible location, and great sustained climbing. Top 5 ever!
Waterfall Ice Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, AB The Eagle Ghost WI5, 35m
****
12/21/03
Beautiful free-standing pillar. In perfect conditions. There's a bolted anchor at the top left.
Waterfall Ice Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, AB Yellow Bird and Albatross Ghost WI4, 90m, and WI3, 100m
***
12/16/03
First trip into the remote Ghost Valley. Beautiful place. Got there without any digging thanks to 4WD and chains!
Waterfall Ice Sunshine ski area, Banff, AB Bourgeau Left Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 200m
*****
12/14/03
One of the best four ice climbs we've ever done, anywhere! Beautiful line, good ice, and sustained climbing.
Waterfall Ice David Thompson Highway, AB Nothing but the Breast Canadian Rockies Ice WI4+, 160m
***
12/10/03
Quick approach to this sunny climb. Low angle thin slabs to a fun steep pillar. Rap off trees.
Waterfall Ice Mt. Murchison, Icefield Parkway, AB Murchison Falls Canadian Rockies Ice WI4+, 240m
***
12/08/03
Good looking line with low/moderate avalanche danger. First two pitches thin and hard to protect. Approach takes about 2 hours.
Waterfall Ice Lake Louise, AB Louise Falls Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 120m
***
12/06/03
Went back to finish it. Pillar in good shape this time.
Waterfall Ice Haffner Creek, AB Two short pillars Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 25m
**
12/03/03
Small canyon with easy access. Several small ice climbs and steep bolted mixed climbs. Forest fire destroyed the trees this summer.
Waterfall Ice Field, BC Carlsberg Column Canadian Rockies Ice WI5, 90m
****
11/23/03
Nice featured ice. Steep, but fat.
Waterfall Ice Evan Thomas Creek, Kananaskis Country, AB

Snowline

2 Low 4 Zero

Canadian Rockies Ice

WI4, 100m

WI3R, 90m

***
11/21/03
Nice views of Mt Kidd and surrounding peaks. Ice crust over snow makes for scary conditions on "2 Low 4 Zero".
Waterfall Ice Grotto Canyon, Canmore , AB His and Hers Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 15m
**
11/16/03
Short pillars very close to town. Fun mixed routes can be top roped from anchors after leading ice.
Waterfall Ice Sunshine ski area, Banff, AB Bourgeau Right Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 310m
****
11/16/03
Six to seven pitches long! Fantastic 60 meter first pitch. Great ice.
Waterfall Ice Lake Louise, AB Lunar Eclipse (a.k.a. Webster's Smear) Canadian Rockies Ice WI4, 55m
***
11/14/03
First climbed this season. Never formed before in climbers' memory.
Waterfall Ice Lake Louise, AB Louise Falls (first 2 pitches) Canadian Rockies Ice WI3, 60m (1st two pitches)
**
11/14/03
Wet. Did not climb the last pitch (steep WI4 pillar) which was dripping badly.
Rock Frenchman Coulee, near Vantage, WA Several routes Cascades Rock 5.8 to 5.10c
****
10/09/03 to 10/14/03
Nice crack climbing on tall basalt columns in the semi-arid desert of Eastern Washington.
Scramble Mt Daniel, WA Mount Daniel Cascades Rock hike with some class 3-4 scrambling
**
09/21/03
After a failed attempt this spring, we're back to bag it. Very different this time: still 4,800ft elevation gain but no snow whatsoever and pretty autumn colors. Nice day in the mountains.
Rock Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, WA Outer Space Cascades Rock 5.9+, 8p
*****
09/18/03
Classic, excellent route. One of the best we've done in Washington state. Don't miss it.
Rock Icicle Canyon, Givler's Dome, Leavenworth, WA Givler's Crack and Bo Derek Cascades Rock 5.8, 2p and 10b, 1p
***
09/17/03
Good climbs. Worth the hike. Some say Givler's Crack is a mini Outer Space but I would not go that far.
Rock Index Town Wall, Index, WA Godzilla, Slow Children (1st pitch only) Cascades Rock 5.9 and 5.10+
****
09/15/03
Incredible fine-grained rock! Best rock in WA?
Rock The Dihedrals, Squamish, BC Arrowroot and Rutabaga (1st pitch only) North America, year 1 10b
***
09/12/03
Classic crack climbing.
Rock The Grand Wall (base), Squamish, BC Peasant's Route North America, year 1 10c, 6p
**
09/10/03
Good route. Easy for the grade. Nice views of the Split Pillar.
Rock The Grand Wall (base), Squamish, BC Exasperator North America, year 1 10c, 2p
****
09/10/03
Great finger crack with excellent pro.
Rock The Apron, Squamish, BC Calculus Direct & Calculus Crack North America, year 1 5.10c, 5p
****
09/07/03
Old Beckey classic combined with a new start gives a nice straight up line. Direct start still a bit dirty but will get better as it gets climbed more often.
Rock South Gully, Squamish, BC Mercy Street North America, year 1 5.10b, 2p
*****
09/07/03
Gorgeous dihedral. Some compare it to the Split Pillar pitch on the Grand Wall...
Rock The Apron, Squamish, BC Diedre North America, year 1 5.8, 6p
*****
09/06/03
Superb! Very crowded but you can't leave Squamish without climbing it.
Rock South Gully, Squamish, BC Rock On North America, year 1 5.10, 5p
*****
09/05/03
Great climb! Don't miss it!
Rock The Apron, Squamish, BC The Snake North America, year 1 5.9, 7p
**
09/03/03
Old classic. Nice climbing but wandering line as the name implies.
Rock The Apron, Squamish, BC St Vitus Dance & Memorial Crack North America, year 1 5.9, 6p
***
09/02/03
Good route. Very similar to the flared cracks at Lumpy Ridge.
Rock Green Giant Buttress, Darrington, WA Dreamer (Dreamer Direct and Urban Bypass variations) Cascades Rock 5.10b, 10p
*****
08/28/03
Excellent route! A couple of great crack pitches! Definitely do the direct start.
Rock Three O' Clock Rock, Darrington, WA Total Soul Cascades Rock 5.10, 8p
****
08/24/03
Great route! More difficult and sustained than its neighbor, Silent Running.
Rock Three O' Clock Rock, Darrington, WA Silent Running Cascades Rock 5.10, 7p
*****
08/22/03
An amazing slab route! Well protected, continuous, on fantastic granite. Every pitch is a blast, and the approach is short! A 7th (crux) pitch has been recently added.
Alpine Rock Sharkfin Tower, Boston Basin, WA Southeast Ridge Cascades Rock Grade II, 5.0, glacier, 30° snow when couloir is in
***
08/19/03
Fun, easy route on very good rock. Amazing views. Do it before the access couloir melts out (June-July?); ugly loose access gully otherwise.
Alpine Rock Forbidden Peak, Boston Basin, WA West Ridge Cascades Rock Grade III, 5.6 glacier, 50° snow when couloir is in
***
08/18/03
An incredibly popular route, although nothing exceptional in our opinion (except the views). Do it early to avoid having to climb loose slabs left of the snow couloir.
Snow & Ice Sahale Peak, Boston Basin, WA Quien Sabe Glacier Cascades Rock Grade II, glacier, steep snow, class 4
****
08/17/03
Very enjoyable, steep glacier walk. Large open crevasses require some navigation. Fun rock scramble to the tiny summit.

Rock

Liberty Bell , WA Liberty Crack Cascades Rock Grade IV, 5.10/A2, 12p
****
08/09/10 to 08/10/03
One of the crowded 50's. Classic line. Good adventure.
Rock North Early Winter Spire, WA West Face Cascades Rock Grade III, 5.11, 7p
*****
08/05/03
The best pure rock climbing we've found in the cascades.
Rock South Early Winter Spire, WA Direct East Buttress Cascades Rock Grade III+, 5.10+/A0, 10p
***
08/01/03
A classic, handsome line; mediocre rock.
Rock North Early Winter Spire, WA Northwest Corner Cascades Rock Grade III, 5.9, 6p
****
07/30/03
Great obvious line; shares the start with the West Face.
Alpine Rock Ingalls Peak, Cascades, WA South Ridge Cascades Rock Grade II, 5.4, 3p
***
07/26/03
Beautiful route on strange red rock. Can be done in one day from the car or as a side attraction to Stuart.
Alpine Rock Mount Stuart, Cascades, WA North Ridge with Great Gendarme Cascades Rock Grade IV+, 5.9, ~18p
*****
07/24/03
Classic. Airy ridge, excellent granite, remote and alpine feeling. Definitely do the Gendarme variation. The descent sucks!
Alpine Rock Dragontail Peak, Cascades, WA Backbone Ridge with Fin Direct Cascades Rock Grade IV, 5.9, ~15p
****
07/14/03
Good line but dangerously loose. Striking face/ridge at top (the Fin). Straightforward descent. Permit needed and hard to get. Fee.
Rock Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, WA Orbit Cascades Rock 5.9, 8p
**
07/09/03
Uneven route, not as good as advertised (we thought).
Rock Pearly Gates, Leavenworth, WA. Several routes Cascades Rock 5.8 to 5.10b
**
07/07/03
A decent, shady (rare!) crag. Very dusty. A few good short routes. Steep approach.
Alpine Rock Prusik Peak, Cascades, WA South Face - Chockstone Route Cascades Rock Grade III, 5.9+, 6p
*****
07/02/03 to 07/05/03
Long approach (10 miles & 6,000 ft). Stunning camping! Great route! Permit needed and hard to get. Fee.
Rock Castle Rock, Leavenworth, WA. Several routes Cascades Rock 5.5 to 5.10b
***
06/28/03 to 06/29/03
The best crag near Leavenworth. Several good multi-pitch routes. Short approach.
Snow & Ice Mount Baker, North Cascades, WA North Ridge Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade III+, 70° snow & ice, glacier

*****
06/16/03 to 06/17/03
Classic. More technical than Liberty Ridge but less strenuous. Permit needed, no fee.
Snow & Ice Mount Rainier, Central Cascades, WA Liberty Ridge Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade V, 50° snow, glacier

*****
06/08/03 to 06/09/03
Classic. Very Strenuous. Permit needed, fee.
Snow & Ice Mount Rainier, Central Cascades, WA Emmons Glacier Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade III, 30° snow, glacier

****
06/03/03 to 06/05/03
Scenic and enjoyable non-technical route. Permit needed, fee.
AT Ski Mount Adams, South Cascades, WA South Spur (not summitted) Cascades Snow & Ice About 7600ft elevation gain
**
05/29/03 to 05/30/03
Ski it - otherwise too boring! Do it before June 1st (fee later in the season).
Snow & Ice Mount Hood, South Cascades, OR

Sunshine (not summitted)

Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade II+, 40° snow, glacier

****
05/26/03 to 05/27/03
Very scenic route. Plan to stay at the Tilly Jane ski cabin.
Snow & Ice Mount Hood, South Cascades, OR South Side - Hogsback Route Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade II, 35° snow, glacier

**
05/22/03
Good 1 day beginner route on glacier.
Snow & Ice Mount Daniel, Cascades, WA Daniel Glacier (not summitted) Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade II, 35° snow, glacier

***
05/18/03 to 05/19/03
Best in late season when the road is opened. Plan for a 2 to 3 day outing if you do it early season.
Snow & Ice Colchuck Peak, Cascades, WA Colchuck Glacier Cascades Snow & Ice

Grade II, 35° snow

***
05/12/03 to 05/14/03
No permit needed to camp at Colchuck lake before June 15.
AT Ski Mount St Helens, South Cascades, WA Monitor Ridge Cascades Snow & Ice About 4700ft elevation gain
****
05/06/03
Good 1 day outing on a volcano. Do it before May 15 (permit quota later in the season).
Rock Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks,NV Unimpeachable Groping North America, year 1 5.10+, 6p
****
04/01/03
Steep and sustained!
Rock Cloud Tower, Red Rocks, NV Crimson Chrysalis North America, year 1 5.8+, 9p
*****
03/31/03
Classic.
Rock Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks, NV Ginger Cracks North America, year 1 5.9, 7p
***
03/29/03
 
Rock The Mescalito, Red Rocks, NV Dark Shadows North America, year 1 5.8, 3p
*****
03/28/03
Red Rocks' best 5.8.
Rock Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA Lots of single pitch sport climbs in the Gorge North America, year 1 5.8 to 5.11b
****
03/06/03 to 03/27/03
Really good rock and even better weather!
AT Ski Mount Tom, Eastern Sierra (near Bishop), CA Elderberry Canyon, North Face North America, year 1 About 5000ft elevation gain
*****
03/08/03
An amazing route! Consistent mellow slope (maybe 20 to 35 degrees) and great snow 90% of the way down! Wow!
Rock Rose Tower, Red Rocks, NV

Olive Oil

North America, year 1

5.7 PG, 6p

***

02/21/03

Bad weather got us stuck for a full week!
Rock Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks, NV Johnny Vegas + Solar Slab North America, year 1 5.7, 4p & 5.6 PG, 9p
*****
03/03/03
 
Rock Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks, NV Power Failure North America, year 1 5.10, 3p
***
03/02/03
 
Rock First Pullout, Red Rocks, NV Cat Walk & It's a Bitch North America, year 1 5.10a & 5.10b, 1p
*
02/24/03
 
Rock Brownstone Wall, Red Rocks, NV Black Dagger North America, year 1 5.8 PG, 7p
****
02/22/03
 
Waterfall ice Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman, MT Palisades Falls North America, year 1 WI4, 1p
**
02/09/03
Not much else in condition.
Waterfall ice Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman, MT Genesis I North America, year 1 WI4+, 1p
***
02/11/03
 
Waterfall ice Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman, MT

Genesis II

North America, year 1

WI3+, 1p

**

02/11/03

 
Waterfall ice Ouray, CO Several single pitch lines in the Ouray ice park North America, year 1 from WI3+ to WI5, 1p
****
01/14/03 to 01/22/03
Good ice in the park but poor conditions in the backcountry.
A bit of everything All over...       Mostly great!
Before this trip...
For a summary of our "Climbing Resume", click here.