
The Climbs
This is supposed to be about a climbing trip, so here it is. Most climbs have links into trip report pages with photographs. Listed in reverse chronological order (most recent at top). If you're looking for a particular route by name, use your browser's search tool to locate it (in Microsoft Internet Explorer click on >Edit >Find).
Note that commitment grades are for comparison only. We roughly adopted Nelson and Potterfield's scale from their guidebook "Selected Climbs in The Cascades", then used our judgment to make grades in other mountain ranges consistent with those in the Cascades. These grades do not include time spent approaching a high camp, when one was used.
Quality ratings are of course entirely subjective and range from one to five stars.
For a summary of climbs we've done before this trip, check our climbing resume.
| Type | Location/Peak | Route(s) | Map | Rating |
Quality |
Date
|
Remarks |
| Rock | ????, East Cochise Stronhold, AZ | Various (sport) | North America, year 2 | wide range |
*
|
11/25/04
|
Another new sport cliff recently developed at Cochise. So-so climbing on uninspiring rock. |
| Rock | Isle of You, Cochise Stronhold, AZ | Various (sport) | North America, year 2 | wide range |
***
|
11/24/04
|
Sunny single-pitch sport climbs on good looking cliffs. Totally unlike the rest of Cochise climbing. |
| Rock | End Dome, Cochise Stronghold, AZ | Days of Future Passed | North America, year 2 | 5.9, A0, 4p |
***
|
11/20/04
|
A real "classic": long approach, a bit sandbagged, very runout, and complete with wide cracks... |
| Rock | East Cochise Stronghold, AZ | Beeline & Unknown | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 2p & 5.10c, 4p |
****
|
11/19/04
|
Some of the highest quality climbing at the Stronghold. The unknown new route is the first one (mostly bolted) just right of the arete on the RHS of Beeline. Highly recommended. |
| Rock | East Cochise Stronghold, AZ | The Wasteland | North America, year 2 | 5.8, 5p |
**
|
11/17/04
|
Somehow this climb has achieved classic status and is very popular. There's some fun climbing on steep chickenheads. |
| Rock | Entrance Dome, East Cochise Stronghold, AZ | Batline & Unknown | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 1p each |
***
|
11/16/04
|
A couple of short routes right off your bumper. Batline is pretty fun. |
| Rock | King Dome, Crown King, AZ | Several | North America, year 2 | 5.9 and 5.10 |
***
|
11/11/04
|
One of the most remote crags we've ever visited! 26 miles of dirt and a bit of rough 4WD leads to a good selection of bolted granite slab routes on a small dome. Mostly 5.10 and a bit heady. |
| Rock | Sedona, AZ | The Mace | North America, year 2 | 5.9+, 5p |
*****
|
11/05/04
|
A really fun route on a great sandstone tower. Unique step-across move at the top. Better love those chimneys... |
| Rock | Granite Mountain, Prescott, AZ | Reunion, via the first two pitches of Said and Done | North America, year 2 | 5.10, 5p |
****
|
10/31/04
|
The best 5.10 combination at the crag. The incredible finger crack of the Reunion pitch is the highlight. The second pitch (rated 5.9+) is the proverbial sandbag. |
| Rock | Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | Dream of Wild Turkey via The Gobbler variation | North America, year 2 | 5.10, 8p |
*****
|
10/24/04
|
One of our two favorite routes on the wall. Very varied: slab, crack, chimney, steep face, and all on the best rock! |
| Rock | Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | Wholesome Fullback | North America, year 2 | 5.10, 2p |
****
|
10/23/04
|
Outstanding route! Crack, offwidth, and chimney fun. Thin finger crack crux |
| Rock | Ice Box Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | Frigid Air Buttress | North America, year 2 | 5.9+, 11p |
***
|
10/16/04
|
Some really fun and interesting climbing, unfortunately broken by large bushy ledges. A good-looking line from the road, though. |
| Rock | Ragged Edges Cliff, Willow Spring Area, Red Rocks, NV | Ragged Edges & Plan F (1st pitch) | North America, year 2 | 5.8, 2p & 5.10, 1p |
***
|
10/14/04
|
Just a bit of cragging for a change. Ragged Edges is the classic, obvious line; The first pitch of Plan F is a great 5.10 finger crack with a wicked exit move. |
| Rock | Ice Box Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | La Cierta Edad | North America, year 2 | 5.10, 6p |
****
|
10/12/04
|
A really fun route with a bit of everything, including a super-fun and well protected 5.9 chimney. Watch for some hollow rock and fragile flakes. |
| Rock | Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley, CA | Northeast Buttress | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 13-14p |
****
|
10/05/04
|
Good climb and a good line. Very physical. We found the squeeze pitches really sandbagged. Confusing route finding in the last 2 pitches. |
| Rock | Royal Arches area, Yosemite Valley, CA | Superslide | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 5p |
***
|
10/04/04
|
Looks great from Serenity Crack. Last three pitches are very good. Crumbly rock on the first two pitches. |
| Rock | Royal Arches area, Yosemite Valley, CA | Serenity Crack & Sons of Yesterday | North America, year 2 | 5.10d, 8p |
*****
|
09/30/04
|
Simply amazing! One of the very best pure rock routes we've ever done, anywhere. |
| Rock | El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, CA | East Buttress | North America, year 2 | 5.10b, 12p |
***
|
09/27/04
|
A few good pitches but a fair amount of awkward climbing... and you're not really on the chief... |
| Rock | Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley, CA | Central Pillar of Frenzy | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 5p |
*****
|
09/24/04
|
Probably the best 5.9 climbing in the valley. Extremely popular. The rock is getting a bit polished. |
| Rock | Daff Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite NP, CA | West Crack | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 5p |
*****
|
09/17/04
|
A really striking crack. Good climbing, and hard cruxes. |
| Rock | Lembert Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite NP, CA | Northwest Face Direct | North America, year 2 | 5.10c, 4p |
***
|
09/16/04
|
OK route on somewhat mossy rock. The crux is short but extremely slippery (keep your toes in the thin crack - smearing is hopeless). |
| Rock | City of Rocks, Idaho | Several routes | North America, year 2 | 5.7 to 5.10c, 1 to 3 p |
***
|
08/28/04
to 09/12/04
|
Great camping, beautiful scenery, and a few great climbs. |
| Alpine Rock | Grand Sentinel, Banff National Park, AB | Regular Route | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade II, 5.9, 4p |
****
|
08/19/04
|
Striking quartzite spire begs to be climbed. Very good third pitch. |
| Alpine Mixed | Mount Temple, Banff National Park, AB | East Ridge | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV, 5.7, 5700ft total gain |
*****
|
08/14/04
|
A great, varied alpine route! Lots of scrambling, some steep 5th class climbing on good quartzite, and a great snow/ice ridge finish. Trivial descent down the tourist trail. |
| Alpine Rock | Mount Sir Donald, Glacier National Park, BC | Northwest Ridge | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV, 5.4, 6500ft total gain |
**
|
08/10/04
|
An amazing-looking ridge, rising 2500 vertical feet in a sharp arete from the Uto-Sir Donald col! We found the climbing pretty monotonous though. Difficult and locally dangerous descent. |
| Alpine Rock | Crescent Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | Paddle Flake Direct | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade II+, 5.10, 5-6p |
****
|
08/02/04
|
Sustained, varied climbing on top-notch, sharp granite. Gotta love those 5.10 squeeze chimneys... |
| Alpine Rock | Snowpatch Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | Sunshine Crack | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV, 5.11-, 11p |
*****
|
07/31/04
|
Long, sustained, and physical with hard cruxes. Do not underestimate this beautiful north-facing line... and pick a warm day. |
| Alpine Rock | Snowpatch Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | Surf's Up | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade III, 5.9, 7p |
**
|
07/30/04
|
A reportedly popular climb on the west ridge of Snowpatch Spire. A fair bit of awkward climbing on rounded rock but the last three pitches are good. |
| Alpine Rock | Crescent Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | Mc Tech Arete | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade II, 5.10b, 6p |
*****
|
07/26/04
|
Gorgeous white granite, sharp cracks, incredibly fun climbing. Enough said. |
| Alpine Rock | Pigeon Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | West Ridge | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade II, 5.4 ridge |
****
|
07/24/04
|
It's been called the best 5.4 on earth ... not sure about that but certainly a beautiful ridge scramble, with excellent rock and gorgeous views. |
| Alpine Rock | Bugaboo Spire, The Bugaboos, BC | North-East Ridge | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV, 5.8, 12+p |
****
|
07/23/04
|
One of the 50 classics. Good climbing along a striking ridge. A long day. |
| Alpine Rock | Castle Mountain, AB | Super Brewer (Ultra Brewer + Brewer Buttress combination) | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV+, 5.9, 22p |
****
|
07/15/04
|
Probably one of the very best long routes in the Rockies. Patiently endure the awful first 4 pitches, then enjoy the great climbing above. |
| Alpine Rock | Mount Louis, AB | Gmoser Route | Canadian Alpine rock | Grade IV, 5.8, ~17p |
**
|
07/12/04
|
A good-looking line on just about the best looking peak around... but the rock and the climbing are mediocre at best. |
| Alpine Rock | Yamnuska, Rockies Front Range, AB | Direttissima | Canadian Alpine rock | 5.8, 9p |
**
|
07/06/04
|
Good old 1957 vintage 5.8... So-so rock, but we knew what to expect. |
| Scramble | Mount Thielsen, OR | West Ridge | North America, year 2 | Class 4 but mostly a hike |
***
|
06/27/04
|
Really striking summit just begs to be climbed. |
| Hike | Mount Mc Loughlin, OR | East Ridge Trail | North America, year 2 | Just a hike |
**
|
06/25/04
|
A minor volcano hidden deep in the forest. |
| Snow & Ice | Mount Shasta, CA | West Face Gully | North America, year 2 | Grade III, snow to 40° |
***
|
06/20/04
to 06/21/04
|
Good looking mountain, beautiful high camp in Hidden Valley, loooong summit day. |
| Hike | Lassen Peak, CA | South Ridge Trail | North America, year 2 | Just a hike |
*
|
06/16/04
|
The southernmost Cascade volcano. Just trying to get back in aerobic shape. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | East Wall | North America, year 2 | 5.7, 3p |
***
|
06/12/04
|
Had to finish off the classics before leaving the area. Fun route. Went up a variation just right of the last pitch to avoid the crowds. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Traveler's Buttress | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 5p |
****
|
06/11/04
|
A good route and one of the 50 Classics. We had climbed this several years earlier; the crux slot is interesting... |
| Rock | Sugarloaf, near Kyburz, CA | Farley & Blue Velvet | North America, year 2 |
5.9, 1p & 5.10c, 3p |
***
|
06/10/04
|
Two of the better routes on the cliff. Steep approach. |
| Rock | Eagle Lake Cliff, Lake Tahoe, CA | Several | North America, year 2 | 5.10's |
***
|
06/07/04
|
Good selection of single-pitch crack routes on excellent rock, and in a gorgeous location. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | East Corner | North America, year 2 | 5.11b, 3p |
***
|
06/04/04
|
A fun route. Good 5.7 first pitch followed by a thin 5.10a stem corner to the one-move 5.11b crux up a bulge. |
| Rock | Main Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Corrugation Corner | North America, year 2 | 5.7, 4p |
*****
|
06/03/04
|
A fantastic route! Possibly the best at the leap. Unusually steep and spectacular for the grade. |
| Rock | Lower Buttress, Lover's Leap, CA | The Groove | North America, year 2 | 5.8, 2p |
**
|
06/03/04
|
Awkward series of mantle moves in - what else - a groove! First move off the ground is hard; be careful. Long runouts on 2nd pitch. |
| Rock | The Hogsback, Lover's Leap, CA | Hogwild & Better with Bacon | North America, year 2 | 5.7, 1p & 5.8, 5p |
*
|
06/01/04
|
Weird routes. Slight runouts on both. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | The Line | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 3p |
****
|
05/31/04
|
The area classic. The first pitch crack is the best: sustained and vertical with bomber pro. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Psychedelic Tree | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 4p |
**
|
05/31/04
|
Mc Namara calls it "The line's uglier sibling". Not as clean but pretty good. Wild last pitch. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Bear's Reach | North America, year 2 | 5.7, 3p |
*****
|
05/27/04
|
A great climb! Fun 5.7 flake liebacks, face moves, and cracks. Beware of a runout near the deck on the 1st pitch. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Tombstone Terror | North America, year 2 | 5.10c, 2p |
****
|
05/26/04
|
A hard climb for the grade we thought. Steep, sustained finger jams and stems in a thin corner. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Surrealistic Pillar Direct | North America, year 2 | 5.10b, 3p |
***
|
05/26/04
|
Acclaimed as a classic... not sure about that. First (direct) pitch is good and sustained. The rest is mostly runout dike hiking. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | East Crack | North America, year 2 | 5.8, 3p |
****
|
05/24/04
|
Very good climb; fairly even at the grade. Good intro to the area. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Scimitar | North America, year 2 | 5.9, 3p |
****
|
05/24/04
|
Great climb. A few tricky moves over bulges. Wild finish. |
| Rock | East Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Haystack, and an unnamed route. | North America, year 2 | 5.8, 3p & 5.10a, 1p |
****
|
05/22/04
|
Good climbing with hard cruxes. Very popular. |
| Rock | Main Wall, Lover's Leap, CA | Hospital Corner | North America, year 2 | 5.10a, 2p |
****
|
05/21/04
|
The 2nd pitch is the business: really great, steep corner. |
| Rock | Calico Basin, Red Rocks, NV | Atman | North America, year 2 | 5.10b, 1/2p |
*
|
05/17/04
|
Clean Indian-creek style tight hands crack in smooth rock. OK but very short. |
| Rock | Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV | Resolution Arete | North America, year 2 | Grade V, 5.10+ A1 (or 5.11+), 20+ pitches |
***
|
05/12/04
|
Three stars for its super-classic status, the obvious line, and the adventure. The climbing itself is OK but not exceptional. A huge day: 19 hours car to car! |
| Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 | 5.10c, 6p |
*****
|
05/09/04
|
In our opinion the best route on the Black Velvet Wall. More varied than Prince of Darkness. | |
| Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | The Prince of Darkness | North America, year 2 | 5.10c/d, 6p |
****
|
05/07/04
|
Another repeat of a great classic. Has become a bit harder over the years due to wear. Second pitch is probably 5.10d now. |
| Rock | Whiskey Peak, Red Rocks, NV | Triassic Sands | North America, year 2 | 5.10c, 6p |
*****
|
05/06/04
|
A terrific crack climb we had climbed years ago. Just as good as we remembered it. |
| Rock | Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA | Lots of sport climbs in the Gorge | North America, year 2 | 5.9 to 5.11b, 1 to 2p |
****
|
04/19/04
to 05/03/04
|
We're back at the Gorge for a couple of weeks after reaching the 14-day limit at the RR campground. |
| Rock | Solar Slab Area, Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.10+, 2p & 5.9, 4p |
****
|
04/16/04 |
A striking off-finger crack in a smooth dihedral; very Indian-Creek-like! Climbed "Beulah's Book" to round out our day. The second pitch (chimney) is really good and varied. | |
| Rock | Whiskey Peak, Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.9, 2p & 5.10a, 1p |
***
|
04/15/04 |
Cragging at Whiskey Peak. | |
| Rock | Icebox Canyon, Red Rocks, NV |
Fold Out & Sensuous Mortician |
North America, year 2 |
5.8, 1p & 5.9, 1p |
**
|
04/14/04 |
Short climbing day on The Necromancer. |
| Rock | First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV |
Lotta Balls & Romper Room |
North America, year 2 |
5.8, 3p & 5.7+, 1p |
****
|
04/12/04 |
The name says it all! No, actually this climb is named for the tiny knobs on the marble face of the second pitch. A really fun climb! |
| Rock | Mount Wilson (Aeolian Wall), Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.10+, 12p |
****
|
04/10/04 |
A great plumb-line route on Mount Wilson with a bit of everything from 5.8 to 5.10+. Tightly bolted on the 5.10 pitches, gear-protected elsewhere. Long and complex approach. | |
| Rock | Whisky Peak , Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.8-, 6p & 5.10+, 1p |
*****
|
04/08/04 |
One of the best 5.8's at RR. Sustained and varied climbing, interesting route finding, easy approach and descent. A must do! | |
| Rock | Mescalito, Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.10, 4p |
**
|
04/07/04 |
Good route (although we wouldn't recommend the last 2 pitches). Nice face climbing on black varnished rock. Last pitch has a few moves up a thin 5.9 corner. | |
| Rock | Jackrabbit Buttress, Red Rocks, NV | North America, year 2 |
5.7, 5p |
*****
|
04/05/04 |
Really fun and steep for its grade. One of the best 5.7's anywhere! | |
| Rock | Owens River Gorge, Bishop, CA | Lots of single pitch sport climbs in the Gorge | North America, year 2 | 5.8 to 5.10+ |
****
|
03/21/04
to 04/01/04
|
Good place to get used to climbing rock again. |
| Waterfall Ice | Icefields Parkway, AB | Polar Circus | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5, 700m |
****
|
03/14/04
|
The most famous climb in the Rockies. A nice long moderate climb. The last 5 pitches offer the best climbing. |
| Waterfall Ice | Icefields Parkway, AB | Right Hand, Lower Weeping Wall. | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5, 160m |
****
|
03/13/04
|
As the name indicates, the right hand line on the Lower Weeping Wall. Good climbing on steep but thick ice. |
| Waterfall Ice | Icefields Parkway, AB | Left Hand, Lower Weeping Wall. | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 160m |
****
|
03/11/04
|
The easiest line on the Lower Weeping Wall. A crowded classic! Still worthwhile given the short approach (10 minutes). |
| Waterfall Ice | Columbia Icefields, AB | Shades of Beauty & Memorial Falls | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 120m & WI5, 55m |
***
|
03/06/04
|
Good routes sitting high on a cliff in the Beauty Creek drainage. Had the climbs to ourselves even though it was Saturday! |
| Waterfall Ice | Icefields Parkway, AB | Complete Weeping Wall (Lower & Upper): Central Pillar + Teardrop | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5+, 160m & WI6, 180m |
*****
|
03/04/04
|
Superb! Linking up the Lower and Upper Weeping Wall provides up to 8 pitches of stellar technical climbing... 10 minutes from the road! Simply amazing! |
| Waterfall Ice | Stanley Headwall, BC | Nemesis | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI6, 160m |
*****
|
02/27/04
|
A Rockies mega-classic! Joe Josephson says: "Rarely are climbs as continuously steep as this one, averaging 85 throughout." He's right! With an approach over two hours, the hardest ice climb we've done so far! |
| Waterfall Ice | North Ghost, AB | This House of Sky | Ghost | WI3-4, 500m+ |
***
|
02/23/04
|
Short easy steps up a cute canyon lead to a large bowl. We climbed two longer and steeper pitches high in the cirque above. Lots of snow slogging between pitches. |
| Waterfall Ice | Waiparous, AB | Hydrophobia | Ghost | WI5+, 180m |
*****
|
02/20/04
|
Classic! Spectacular, steep, and very sustained climbing in a beautiful setting. A must do! |
| Waterfall Ice | Kananaskis Country, AB | Whiteman Falls | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI6, 95m |
****
|
02/15/04
|
A fine climb tucked at the far end of a unique narrow canyon. A bit of a disappointment considering its classic status. More like WI5+ when we climbed it. |
| Waterfall Ice | South Ghost, AB | Aquarius & Rainbow Serpent | Ghost | WI4, 60m & WI6, 100m |
*****
|
02/13/04
|
A fine approach pitch (Aquarius) into the unique "Recital Hall" and the greatest, most impressive pillar we've ever seen: "Rainbow Serpent". Simply amazing! |
| Waterfall Ice | Mount Rundle, Banff, AB | Professor Falls | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 280m |
****
|
02/11/04
|
Beautiful approach along the Bow River, great views of the valley, and good climbing. A moderate classic. |
| Waterfall Ice | North Ghost, AB | Phantom Falls | Ghost | WI4R, 40m |
***
|
02/09/04
|
A good looking, narrow line. Does not often forms. Usually thin (R) when it does, but fat when we climbed it. |
| Waterfall Ice | South Ghost, AB | Wicked Wanda | Ghost | WI4+, 60m |
****
|
02/08/04
|
The name says it all: wicked... A beautiful line with weird ice formations. An imposing climb when seen from the parking area at Devil's Gap. |
| Waterfall Ice | South Ghost, AB | Lacy Gibbet | Ghost | WI5, 300m |
****
|
02/05/04
|
A long approach (3 hrs) to a long, stepped climb in the sun. A nice long day. The crux top pitch rarely forms but was fat when we climbed it. |
| Waterfall Ice | Columbia Valley, BC | Gibraltar Wall | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 170m |
**
|
01/27/04
|
Easy access and lots of ice, but nondescript routes and snow ledges up a wide flow. |
| Waterfall Ice | Columbia Valley, BC | Raven's Call (TR) | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5, 45m |
***
|
01/26/04
|
A wicked looking, tall and steep pillar in a deep recess. We only top-roped it. |
| Waterfall Ice | David Thompson Highway, AB | Kitty Hawk | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5, 200m |
****
|
01/21/04
|
By far the most striking line along the DT highway. A beautiful climb. We found very difficult, brittle ice conditions. |
| Waterfall Ice | David Thompson Highway, AB | Eliott Left-Hand Gully | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 200m |
***
|
01/17/04
|
Hard to see from the road because it is in a deep slot. A nice first pitch to easy snow and ice and a tall, steep pillar at the top. |
| Waterfall Ice | David Thompson Highway, AB | Five Seven Zero | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 100m |
***
|
01/16/04
|
A good looking flow at the crest of a long ridge. A steep but short (25m) WI4 pillar leads to a long, enjoyable WI3 flow. |
| Waterfall Ice | Field, BC | Guiness Gully | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 245m |
***
|
01/14/04
|
Not the most striking line from a distance, but the climbing is very enjoyable. Steep steps and long snow slopes to a very long top pitch. |
| Waterfall Ice | Field, BC | Pilsner Pillar | Canadian Rockies Ice |
WI6, 215m |
****
|
01/12/04
|
The famed bottom pillar was thankfully fat and only WI5+ or so when we climbed it. Some really good climbing above as well. |
| Waterfall Ice | South Ghost, AB | Malignant Mushroom | Ghost | WI5, 55m |
****
|
01/09/04
|
Really good looking single-pitch pillar with a short approach. Often wet. We got thoroughly soaked but liked it anyway. |
| Waterfall Ice | North Ghost, AB | The Sorcerer | Ghost | WI5, 180m |
*****
|
12/22/03
|
An incredible climb: gorgeous line, incredible location, and great sustained climbing. Top 5 ever! |
| Waterfall Ice | Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, AB | The Eagle | Ghost | WI5, 35m |
****
|
12/21/03
|
Beautiful free-standing pillar. In perfect conditions. There's a bolted anchor at the top left. |
| Waterfall Ice | Valley of the Birds, North Ghost, AB | Yellow Bird and Albatross | Ghost | WI4, 90m, and WI3, 100m |
***
|
12/16/03
|
First trip into the remote Ghost Valley. Beautiful place. Got there without any digging thanks to 4WD and chains! |
| Waterfall Ice | Sunshine ski area, Banff, AB | Bourgeau Left | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI5, 200m |
*****
|
12/14/03
|
One of the best four ice climbs we've ever done, anywhere! Beautiful line, good ice, and sustained climbing. |
| Waterfall Ice | David Thompson Highway, AB | Nothing but the Breast | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4+, 160m |
***
|
12/10/03
|
Quick approach to this sunny climb. Low angle thin slabs to a fun steep pillar. Rap off trees. |
| Waterfall Ice | Mt. Murchison, Icefield Parkway, AB | Murchison Falls | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4+, 240m |
***
|
12/08/03
|
Good looking line with low/moderate avalanche danger. First two pitches thin and hard to protect. Approach takes about 2 hours. |
| Waterfall Ice | Lake Louise, AB | Louise Falls | Canadian Rockies Ice | WI4, 120m |
***
|