I don't have a good recollection of this climb. I'm writing this trip report more than two years after the fact and without any notes. But here's what I remember:
A good climb. Some really fun and interesting climbing, unfortunately broken by large bushy ledges. A good-looking line from the road, though.
The route is described in the Urioste's red book and follows a line just slightly left of the center of the Frigid Air buttress. It has 11 pitches; some of them are really short. I used the pitch numbering used in the guidebook on the figure captions but we ended up breaking the pitches a bit differently.
The first pitch goes up the right side of a black flake (5.7). If I remember correctly there is a bolted anchor at the top of the flake and I stopped there instead of following the thin crack above.
I started up the thin crack above, then traversed left toward the tree. The drag was not too much of a problem since we were climbing on doubles.
I think I might have combined (I don't remember exactly) pitches 3 and 4.
The 5th pitch is a really fun one and follows a 5.7 chimney with great pro. I usually don't lead any chimneys because I'm just a big chicken when it comes to climbing with sparse pro. Eric usually gets all the chimney pitches but I begged him to let me have this done!
Eric led the next 5 pitches. I think he combined pitches 6 through 8. The offwidth of pitch 6 and the chimney of pitch 9 provide good climbing.
I got the final pitch, a great 5.9+ finger crack, one of the best pitches on the route.
Frigid Air Buttress, Red Rocks, NV
|The Frigid Air Buttress. The route follows a line slightly left of the centre of the buttress.|
|The route is shown in red.|
|Lucie leading pitch 1 (5.7).|
|On the thin crack above the flake (starting pitch 2).|
|Traversing left on easy slab to the tree on pitch 2.|
|Starting pitch 3 (5.8).|
|At the belay atop pitch 4, below the fun chimney.|
|Pitch 5 follows a fun and well protected 5.7 chimney.|
|Starting pitch 5.|
|Higher on pitch 5.|
|Eric starting pitch 6 (5.9-).|
|Higher on pitch 6 (we must have combined pitches 6, 7, and 8 somehow?).|
|Eric starting up the chimney of pitch 9.|
|Higher on the same pitch, stemming by the second chimney.|
|Eric starting pitch 10.|
|At the belay below the final wall.|
|Lucie leading the final pitch, one of the best pitches on the route.|
|Higher on pitch 11 (5.9+).|
|Taking a break on the summit with Calico Basin in the background.|
|Heading back toward the base of the climbing and looking up at climbers on "Come again", a line to the left of "Frigid Air Buttress".|