We climbed this on a beautiful sunny day. The climb follows a series of dihedrals, flakes and cracks on the South-East face of Rose Tower, right at the mouth of Juniper Canyon. With enjoyable, easy, and generally well protected climbing along a prominent natural line, a pleasant approach, and quick descent, this has become a definite Red Rocks classic. Lucie led most of the climb, except for the first and last pitches.

One of the cruxes of the climb comes on the very first pitch (5.7 PG), when surmounting a slabby bulge. Protection is adequate but not plentiful. The next two pitches follow a beautiful low angle crack, just right of a prominent right facing dihedral. The fourth pitch traverses right then heads up a slabby face and a crack between two buttresses, before traversing right again to a large sloping ledge (note that Swain's guidebook shows this as two pitches, 150ft+30ft; this is incorrect; the ledge is reached in a single 150ft pitch from the bolted anchor at the top of the third pitch). From the ledge, the last two pitches start with a long rising traverse to the right (no protection but easy terrain), into a large shallow dihedral. This leads in two pitches to a large ledge directly below the top.

The descent is straightforward and quick, following a gully to the right (North) of the tower.

 

 

Olive Oil, Red Rocks, NV

February 21, 2003 - Rock climb, 5.7 PG, 6 pitches, trad.
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Rose Tower from the approach trail at sunrise.
 
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Rose Tower in early afternoon; the top half of the route is visible.
 
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Eric just below the "crux" of the first pitch.
 
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Lucie leading the crack on pitch 2.
 
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Second belay (in the crack).
 
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Lucie on the third pitch.
 
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Starting the 4th pitch.
 
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Fourth pitch (error in guidebook; see text at right).
 
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The traverse on the 5th pitch.
 
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Large dihedral (5th pitch)
 
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Last belay ledge (top of 6th pitch).
 
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On the beautiful trail back to the car.
(high res. images are about 300KB)