On this sunny but windy morning, we climbed "Unimpeachable Groping", a 6 pitch bolted line on the east face of Ginger Buttress. We had scoped this line after climbing Power Failure a few weeks earlier. Since the climb is not that popular (it did not get a * in the guidebook), we got a relatively late start, driving to the Juniper Canyon trailhead around 7:30AM. Having climbed "Crimson Chrysalis" the day before, we had left most of our gear at the base of the gully that leads to the climb. This made the approach much easier.
"Unimpeachable Groping" is a beautiful, straight up, very sustained face climb on white and varnished rock. All 6 pitches involve 5.10 climbing. The first two pitches follow somewhat questionable flakes on white rock, but the rock quality gets much better as you go up.
The first pitch starts by climbing a large pine tree until you can reach the first bolt. The first crux of the climb is at the end of the first pitch (two bolts very close together), just below the anchors; a few tricky and slabby moves on steep rock (probably 10c). The second pitch is easier than the first. The short third pitch (10b, 3 bolts) follows a left leaning crack to a huge ledge with a "hanging" garden. The second crux of the climb occurs on the 4th pitch, when surmounting a large roof just above the ledge (about 10c). The rest of the pitch is less sustained in nature than the rest of the climb, but really fun and on good rock. Pitches 5 and 6 climb up beautiful varnished rock almost to the top of Ginger Buttress. The climbing here is straightforward but steep and sustained (about 10b). From the top of the sixth pitch, one can apparently climb an easier (?) pitch to the top of Ginger Buttress then probably descend via "Power Failure" (we did not test that option), or make 4 double rope raps down the route. Pitches 5-6 and 3-4 can be combined on the descent. Note that the guidebook recommends taking a small nut or TCU to protect easy ground. This can indeed be used around the middle of the first pitch but is not absolutely necessary. The rest of the route is very generously bolted.
Unimpeachable Groping, Red Rocks
|"Unimpeachable Groping" climbs Ginger Buttress right of the obvious water streak.|
|The route goes up steep faces and a large roof.|
|Lucie following the 1st pitch.|
|On the 2nd pitch.|
|The hanging garden on the huge ledge on the top of pitch 3.|
|Eric on pitch 4, just below one of the climb's cruxes.|
|Above the roof on pitch 4.|
|On the beautiful varnished face of pitch 5.|
|Near the top of the last pitch.|
|Happy as a clam after a nice day of climbing.|