Partial list of the climbs
we have done before embarking on this trip. We climb almost exclusively as
a team. Unless indicated otherwise, all the following climbs were done by
both of us.
- Our first climbing
experiences ever: the introductory class with the Los Alamos Mountaineers
- First traditional lead:
Easy Ridge (5.6, 14p), Brazos Cliff, NM (July).
- The Matron, East
Ridge (5.5), Flatirons, Boulder, CO.
- Tunnel Vision (5.7,
6p), Dark Shadows (5.8-, 4p), Frogland (5.8, 7p), Red Rocks,
- What's my Line
(5.6-A0, 3p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
- Introduction to
ice climbing in Ouray (January).
- Ellingwood Arete
(5.7, III), Crestone Needle, CO (July); our first of the crowded 50 Classics!
- Rewritten (5.8,
6p), The Great Zot (5.8+, 4p), Bastille Crack (5.8, 5p),
Eldorado Canyon, Boulder,
- East of Easy (5.7,
14p), Cat Burglar (5.8, 8p), Resignation Ridge (5.8, 10p),
Brazos Cliff, NM.
- East Ridge of Wolf's
Head, (5.6, II), South
Buttress of Pingora (5.8, 3p, II), North-East
face of Pingora (5.8, 11p, IV), Cirque of the Towers, Wind River
- South Six Shooter
(5.7, 2p) Indian Creek, UT.
- Black Orpheus (5.9+,
10p), Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+, 9p), Triassic Sands (5.10,
6p), Sour Mash (5.10-, 6p), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10-,
7p), Red Rocks, NV.
- The Green Spur
(5.9, 5p), West Buttress of the Bastille (5.9, 4p), Green Slab
Direct (5.9, 4p), Yellow Spur (5.9, 7p), Anthill Direct
(5.9s, 6p), Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
- Our first spring snow
gully: Red Gully, Crestone Peak, CO.
(5.7, III, this route has since disappeared in a major rock slide), Hallett
Peak, The Petit Grepon (5.7, 8p, South Face), Rocky Mountain National
- North Face of Fairview
Dome (5.9, IV), West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle (5.10b, III),
Tuolumne Meadows, CA.
- South-East face
of Clyde Minaret (5.8, IV), Fishook Arete of Mt Russell (5.9,
III), East Face of Mt Whitney (5.6, III), Eastern Sierra, CA.
- Royal Arches
(5.9, III), Yosemite Valley, CA.
- Central Rib Direct
(5.8, ~10p), Brazos Cliff, NM.
- First Gully (WI4,
800ft), Whore House Hose (WI4-5, 500ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton,
- Horsetail Falls
(WI4, 500ft), Ouray, CO.
- Treasure Falls
(WI4-5, 130ft), Wolf Creek Pass, CO.
- Bridalveil Falls
(WI5, 400ft), Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), around Telluride, CO.
- East Buttress of
Middle Cathedral (5.10c, IV), Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9,
5p), Nutcracker (5.8, 5p), Yosemite Valley, CA.
- South-West Ridge
of the Needle (5.8, 15p), Sandia Mountain, Albuquerque, NM.
- George's Tree
(5.9, 4p), Loose Ends (5.9, 4p), Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p),
Back Flip (5.9, 3p), Mainliner (5.9, 6p), Femp (5.9,
4p), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
- Direct Exum Ridge
(5.7, IV, combined with Upper Exum), Direct South Buttress of Mt Moran
(5.9, A1, IV), North Ridge of Grand Teton (5.7, IV), Grand Teton
National park, WY.
- South Prow of Kit
Carson (5.8, ~8p), Crestone Range, CO.
- Supercrack (5.10),
Incredible Handcrack (5.10), The Wave (5.10+), and others,
Indian Creek, UT.
(5.9, 4p), Castleton Tower, Castle Valley, UT.
- Crabby Appleton
(5.9+, 5p), The Nightcrawler (5.10, 4p), Prince of Darkness
(5.10c, 6p), Red Rocks, NV.
- Stairway to Heaven
(WI4, 900ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton, CO.
- The Ribbon (WI4,
600ft), Skylight area, Ouray, CO.
- Gold Rush (WI4+,
500ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton, CO.
- Ames Ice Hose
(WI5, 600ft), around Telluride, CO.
- Escape Artist
(5.9+, 9p), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO.
- Ancient Mariner
(5.10a, 3p), J-Crack (5.9, 5p), Endless Crack (5.9, 5p), Fat
City Crack (5.10b, 4p), Romulan Territory (5.10b, 4p), Progression
(5.10, 7p), Orange Julius (5.10b, 6p), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
(5.9, 18p), Eagle Dance (5.10-A0, 9p), Cat in the Hat (5.6+,
5p), The Great Red Book (5.8, 2p), Yellow Brick Wall (5.10,
5p), The Gobbler (5.10-, 2p), Red Rocks, NV.
- Flying Buttress
of Mt Meeker
(5.9, 6p), Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
- South Face of Charlotte
11p), Red Dihedral of Incredible Hulk (5.10, 11p), Third Pillar
of Dana (5.10, 7p), Eastern Sierra, CA.
- Traveler's Buttress
(5.9, 4p), Lovers Leap, CA.
- Casual Route
(5.10a, 8p), the Diamond, Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
- Warpaint (5.10c,
5p), Warpath (5.9+, 4p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
- Cotopaxi (19,347
ft - turned back 500 ft below summit), Chimborazo (20,701 ft - summited),
- Climbed the classic
ice routes of SW Colorado again: Bridalveil
400ft), Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), Stairway to Heaven (WI4,
- Arribas Amoebas
(5.10, 6p), The Wasteland (5.8, 7p), Dem Bones (5.10, 6p),
Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+, 9p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
- Rigid Designator
(WI4+, 130 ft), The Thang (WI5-M5), Vail, CO.
- No Name Crack
(5.10b), Bad Rad Dual Reality Crack (5.10d), and others, Indian Creek,
- Ruper (5.8,
6p), Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a, 3p), Grandmother's Challenge
(5.10c, 2p), Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
- Leasure Climb
(5.9-, 6p), Comic Relief (5.10-, 9p), Maiden Voyage (5.9+,
6p), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO.
- La Demande (5.10'ish,
~10p), Gorges du Verdon, France.
- Spigolo Giallo
(5.10, ~9 pitches, on Tre Cime de Lavaredo III), East Face of Catinaccio
(Steger Route, 5.9, 18p), Dolomites, Italy.
- North Ridge
(5.6, 8p) and Sycke's Sickle (5.9, 7p) on the Spearhead, North-East
Ridge of Sharkstooth (5.6, 6p), Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
- Mountain Momma
(5.10c, 7p), The Great Escape (5.10d, ~5p), Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque,
- Pervertical Sanctuary
(5.10d/11a, 6p), the Diamond, Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park,
- Coatimundi Corner
(5.9, 5p), Reunion (5.10-, 4p), Slammer Jam (5.10, 5p), and
others, Granite Mountain, Prescott, AZ.
- Jah Man (5.10c,
5p), North Chimney of Castleton Tower (5.9, 4p), Sister Superior,
Castle Valley, UT.
That year was marked by
a failed trip to Peru, where Eric broke his clavicle. This put a serious damper
on any climbing over the next several months. Several weeks before the Peru
trip were also absorbed by training for it on Colorado Fourteeners.
- Ames Ice Hose
(WI5+, 5.9, 600ft), this time in really thin conditions, and several other
classic ice climbs in South-Western CO (already listed above).
- Stairway to Heaven
(WI5-6, 5p), The Fang (WI5-6, 2p), Provo Canyon, UT.
(AI3, M2+, III), Mt. Meeker, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
- The Grand Giraffe
(5.10a), and others, Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
- Pequeno Alpamayo
(17,700 ft), La Derecha (WI3, ~ 18,000 ft) in the Condoriri valley,
and the highest peak in the country, Sajama (21,463 ft), Bolivia
Not that much climbing.
Eric was still healing his shoulder a large part of this year (not to mention
breaking it again while leading rock too soon...). Our alpine trips suffered
bad karma/weather (Mt Alice, Diamond). The last few months of the year, we
spent most every weekend preparing for this bus trip.
- Osiris (5.7,
4p), Kor's Flake (5.7+, 6p), Melvin's Wheel (5.8+,
4p), Pear Buttress (5.8+, 5p), The Guillotine (5.10b, 6p),
Lumpy Ridge, CO.
- Fingertrip (5.7),
Open Book (5.9), Whodunit (5.9), El Camino Real (5.10),
Superpooper (5.10), and others Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA.
- Rising Spirits
(5.10+, 6p, Hermit Spire), Magic Dragon (5.8, 12p, Magician), Thin
Ice (5.10b, 3p, Sorcerer), Airy Interlude (5.10, 3p, Witch),
Igor Unchained (5.9, 3p, Witch), Love Potion #9 (5.10, 3p,
Sorcerer Apprentice), the Needles, CA.
- Durrance (5.8,
6p), El Matador (5.10d, first 2p), Belle-Fourche Buttress
(5.10b, 4p), Walt Bailey Memorial (5.9), Soler (5.9, 2p),
New Wave and Assembly Line (5.10a and 5.9), Devils Tower,
on the road...
Modest Climbing Resume
is partial list of some of the more notable (to us), higher quality, or longer
climbs we have done.
Diamond, Longs Peak, CO.
Diamond, Longs Peak, CO.
|Jeff Lowe's Demo
Climb, Ouray, CO.
|Mixed line in
the Ouray ice park, CO.
res. images are about 300KB)